Driving towards the upper edge of Ćićarija we quickly see an inviting cave, which offers a couple of routes for advanced climbers and a handful of easier ones on the edges and in the new sector. Still, the potential of Nugla is greater than what‘s currently on offer. For one day everyone can find something for himself and the tranquility is an extra bonus here. In other words – grab the drilling machine and make the crag more appealing.
ACCESS
Even though you can get to Ćićarija edge from the other side through Slum, it is better to drive to Roč, go through it, past the Cimos factory, to Gornja Nugla. Continue uphill to the edge of Ćićarija. After a small chapel there is a sharp turn right. This is one of the rare approaches, where you car will suffer a bit – the dirt road can be in poor condition. When you see a small house, park, or continue to the right across the meadow. Park on the edge. From this parking two separate routes lead on, one goes left through the woods to the new sector, the other to the right and down the slope to the cave.
WEATHER
Nugla is a bit higher than the other crags here, so it can be colder (even snowy). Winter can be cold, as there is a lot of shade. You can climb in the afternoon in summer. Rain doesn‘t matter in the cave.
ENVIROMENTAL NOTES
Prehistoric caveman remains were found in this cave. Homo sapiens and neanderthals competed in sending the first 6a in Croatia.
Recommended accommodations
ROUTES (from left to right)
In the cave your biceps will work in short cruxy boulders. Out of the cave the routes are more technical, while the new sector again requires some strength in shorter routes. Only few routes are longer and even those are not really extreme. So a short rope and a handful of quickdraws is enough. The rock is solid, but still, climb carefully. The routes are nicely bolted and the base is big and comfy. Children can play here all day, they just have to be careful at the approach.
A – Nugla
Makedonski | 6b | 13m |
Naprsnjak | 6b+ | 11m |
Bongos | 6a+ | 11m |
Realist | 8a | 20m |
Nihilist | 7c+ | 20m |
Woodstock | 7c+ | 12m |
Vombat | 7a+ | 10m |
Vidok | 7b+ | 10m |
Proces | 7c+ | 10m |
Mala prodavaonica užasa | 6b+ | 10m |
Pesimist | 8a+ | 23m |
Pesimist extension = P | ? | 28m |
Bombona | 7c | 25m |
Nema života bez buže | 6c+ | 25m |
P | ? | 26m |
Siga Sanga | 7b+ | 25m |
To je taj rad | 7a | 25m |
B – Nova Nugla
Violent Pornography | 7b | 10m |
Optimist | 7c+ | 10m |
Tratinčica | 6b | 10m |
Buha | 6c+ | 5m |
Butterfly effect | 7a+ | 10m |
Rakija je naša medežija | 6c+ | 10m |
Mali veliki čovjek | 6c | 10m |
? | 6c | 10 m |