Dvigrad – another discovery of mysterious Maurizio Zanolla Manolo – the Italian master of vertical climbing from the 80’s. An excellent quality of rock – perfect grey compact limestone, a beautiful landscape, in the vicinity to the sea, the famous medieval castle of Dvigrad just near,… are more than enough reasons to give a visit to this historical crag in the middle of Istria.
Access
From the Pula – Buje highway take the exit Rovinj/Kanfanar and drive till the small city Kanfanar. Just on the start of it turn left direction Dvigrad. Drive for 5 kilometers passing the medieval castle of Dvigrad then turn right driving through the village of Korenići for 1,2 kilometer and park on your left. From the parking lot take the path going to the right for 10 minutes to reach this special crag.
Weather
The wall of Dvigrad is facing south so it’s best season is from late autumn till the beginning of spring, the best days being in winter. In summer the wall gets some shade after 4 PM but the rock still remains warm. Be aware of snakes during the warmer months!
Rock Quality
The rock in Dvigrad is the best grey compact limestone you can ever imagine. It is very solid and it offers a nice variety of holds: from cracks, to pockets and edges.
INTERESTING NOTES
Dvigrad is home to one of the hardest vertical routes in the world – Malvazija. It was freed by Maurizio Zanolla – Manolo more than 30 years ago and graded as an 8b+. Just a couple of years ago the route got the first repeat by the American Cody Roth and it got upgraded to 8c+ due to some broken holds.
ROUTES (from left to right)
Routes in Dvigrad are all vertical or slightly overhanging. Good foot technique is more than essential and finger power is very much needed as well. It is a typical old school climbing area. Bring a 60 meters rope and about 12 quickdraws.
Sector A
Praz | 5b | 12m |
Poskok | 6a+ | 12m |
Hudu-gurus | 6b+ | 14m |
Smrikva | 4b | 11m |
Copata | 6b+ | 13m |
Pčelinje gnijezdo | 7a | 13m |
X-files | 7a+ | 13m |
Šparoga bluz | 7c | 11m |
Rattlesnakey Nik | 4c | 14m |
Raph Coral snake | 6a | 14m |
Graža | 5a | 14m |
Pašture | 5c | 14m |
Keramička pločica | 6c+ | 14m |
Brombula | 4b | 14m |
Hermine | 5a | 17m |
Anita | 5a | 17m |
Sector B
C.T. | 5c | 13m |
Bolder | 7a+ | 14m |
Il buco del burioso | 6b | 14m |
Črišnja | 5a | 15m |
Bevanda | 6c+ | 15m |
Kičma | 7b | 15m |
Tavana | 7b | 15m |
Šojka | 5a | 15m |
Kada | 6a | 11m |
Parket | 6b+ | 11m |
Smrdoprd | 6c | 11m |
Rigoljub | 7b+ | 11m |
Šipak | 4b | 11m |
Dub | 5c | 15m |
La grigliata | 7b | 22m |
Il clandestino | 7c | 23m |
Malvazija | 8c+ | 23m |
What shall we do for a drunken climber | 8c | 23m |
Pukotina | 6b | 20m |
Divi prasac | 7b+ | 20m |
Lo gnomo | 6c+ | 20m |
Sector C
La fattura | 7b | 23m |
Camomila | 6b+ | 23m |
Il ritmo parlante | 7c | 23m |
Falsa partenza | 7c | 23m |
Otavarium | 8a+ | 21m |
Dovevi pensarci prima | 7b+ | 23m |
Sjekira-Dular | 7b | 21m |
Relja | 6b+ | 17m |
Alergija | 5c | 17m |
Smokvino mliko | 6a+ | 17m |
Na parove razbroj | 7a | 17m |
A rotati | 6a+ | 15m |
8a (without using the left crack) | 8a | 15m |
Vrana | 4c | 15m |
Ambiciozna crta | 6b | 8m |
Connecting people | 7c | 8m |
Priko drage | 5c | 15m |
Otrovna kiša | 7a+ | 15m |
Ditarcuate.com | 7b+ | 10m |
Urlo | 6b+ | 10m |
Praz | 6a | 10m |
Žvahača | 5a | 6m |
Cip et Cop | 6b | 11m |
Miš z Mekinj | 6c | 8m |
Skakavac | 5a | 11m |
Gušter | 5b | 10m |
Bukatela | 5a | 26m |
Rankun | 5b | 26m |
Spone | 5c | 23m |
Črv | 5a | 16m |
V.I.M. | 6b+ | 15m |
Nemoren | 5b | 6m |
Sector D
Tizi | 5b | 10m |
Dodo | 5c | 10m |
Liso | 6b+ | 10m |
Duga | 6b+ | 11m |
Raumer | 6c | 12m |
Biba | 6c | 13m |
Logaritam | 7b | 15m |
Šišmiš | 6b | 15m |
Sonda | 7a | 14m |
muntravo.net.hr | 7c | 14m |
Makinja | 6b+ | 16m |
P | ? | 16 |
Noćna mora | 6c+ | 16m |
Ridovka | 6a | 11m |
Drača | 6a | 11m |
Grab | 5b | 18m |
Bijeli glog | 5c | 18m |
Crni glog | 5c | 18m |
Baršudba | 6a | 18m |