Medveja

Wide valley of Lovranska draga, which ends in the sea at Medveja, is another natural pearl of the region, at first sight rich with excellent walls, which seem hard to access. Today, this is one of the crags with the hardest routes in the region and a concentration of 7s and 8s, all of which are spectacular: mostly on overhangs and tufas, endurance based, continuous and full of innovative moves and cruxes. For all better climbers this is an absolute pilgrimage destination, with plenty of room for more.

The sector behind the camp has a separate approach. Drive to the camp in Medveja and park beside the road before it (from the direction of Rijeka). From here, there is a short path beside the camp fence to the wall.

For other sectors you have to drive through Lovran, where you need to catch the turn uphill (from direction of Medveja camp sharp left after the gas station, from direction of Rijeka turn right after the Riviera restaurant). Follow the signs for Liganj, Tuliševica and Lovranska draga. You will drive through the first two villages after a series of hairpin bends. Once you leave Tuliševica, drive on for 1,5 kilometers and park on the left side on a big widening (look for the signs for Lovranska draga and Villa Oraj). Here, a narrow road goes left and down. Go on it by foot and you will soon see a small parking on the right and a path right beside it, leading to the crag under the powerlines. Follow the path and you‘ll arrive to sector Stribog. From here going down you can reach sectors Mali and Veli Jože using via ferratas, for sector Knezgrad just traverse to the right.

The easier way to get sector Knezgrad directly is to go on asphalt road for another 100 meters down the hill, turn right on a small trail which will bring you directly under the wall. The path to sector Kvarner starts at the end of Knezgrad and goes around on a series of ropes and via ferrata. Most approaches are unsuitable for kids!

Maybe you’ll be able to climb behind the camp in the summer early morning, because elsewhere will be too hot. Winter is the perfect season, with spring and autumn too, if the weather is not too great. You can even climb in rain, but as with any wall with tufas, Medveja will get wet and will dry depending on the wind.

The lowest sector is right beside the campground – it‘s old and made for beginners. Still, it‘s nicely bolted and in a pleasant environment, so despite lower grades, you can climb nicely here. It functions almost as a separate crag.
Stribog is a vertical wall, rich with holds, for technically advanced climbers, with great continuous routes on the grey limestone.
Veli Jože has three long, fairly hard and slightly overhanging routes, but mostly lots of free space. More wellrounded is the superb Mali Jože, offering something for everyone: easy warmups, even better 7s, technical 8s, tufas, slopers, crimps, overhangs, vertical walls. It‘s an almost mandatory visit, if you don‘t drift straight to Knezgrad.
Knezgrad is the king sector. Almost all the routes are fantastic, but not for beginners. If you want to truly enjoy here, you need the level of at least 7c. All of the routes are rich in tufa, holes and big holds, interrupted by cruxes for power or technique. Of course the basis for everything is endurance in overhangs.

Sector behind the camp is completely separate story from the rest of Medveja: it has its own approach, different and even a little polished rock and a good selection of very easy and nicely equipped routes that will be simple enough even for a complete beginner.
Stribog is the first sector you come to if you go past the powerlines. Although the routes are more vertical, they are nice and continuous and are worth stopping by to warm up for the later, harder sectors.
Veli Jože is the tallest wall in Medveja, but there‘s lots to be done here. You get to it on a scary ferrata from Stribog. The first cave has three routes, while lower and to the left are long, technical and a bit crumbly ones. Anyway – equippers welcome!
Mali Jože was the first sector to be bolted here and has many long, quite demanding classics. Anybody, except complete beginners will find two or three routes for his or her level here, though not all are easy for their grade. Be sure to try the first route of Medveja (not counting camping), RiRock 7b+!
Knezgrad is the king sector about which nothing more needs to be said. Just be sure to have the proper level.
Kvarner is a sector bolted by Italians Polo and Varnerin. The Dreamer starts one floor lower. It‘s a sector for select few, but has some future potential. Of course, bring at least 70 m long rope, and enough quickdraws, especially if going to Knezgrad. Equipment is new and great, only the distances between bolts (especially in Knezgrad), in easy parts and in easy routes can be substantial. Space under the wall is mostly comfy, which doesn‘t apply for approaches – although the ferratas are safe and good, it‘s good to be well versed and elegant when moving on them.