Vela draga is foremost a breathtaking natural monument of geomorphology and geology, a part of Učka National Park and the location of a walking-learning trail, which will take you into the past of this splendid natural phenomenon, teaching you about animals and plants and long traditions of mountaineering and sport climbing as well. The rock formations are actually better for admiring than for climbing. This is a special historical center of climbing, thanks to Italian Emillio Comici from Trieste, who in 1931 with his partner Stauderi scaled northern side of the Big tower. In 1986 began a more modern equipping of the crag, which continues to this day, although in climbing sense it is not really too special – you should come here for the environment and peace, without big ambitions.
ACCESS
Get going on the motorway from the direction of Buzet towards Učka tunnel. Right before the tunnel use the exit for Labin and Vela Učka. Drive behind the gas station, right and downwards. Cough up some money for the toll and turn left for Labin. Soon you will spot a big parking on your left with some benches. From here a learning trail leads through the woods to the edge of the walls. If you‘re a bit nosy, you will find the way down already at sector Fliper, otherwise there are more trails on the scree slopes, that lead you in the middle of limestone towers. They are then connected with a network of trails and with a bit of orientation skills you should handle yourself quickly.
WEATHER
Best time to climb in Vela draga is from autumn until spring. In winter you will hope for the sun, while in spring and autumn you will search for shady walls. Be careful, snakes!
ROCK QUALITY
The rock in Vela draga is sometimes good, but may, especially at beginnings, crumble a bit. You need a little experience to judge its quality, but as mentioned, you should take the relaxed, patient approach.
ENVIROMENTAL NOTES
You are located in the national park, so act accordingly: take your trash, don‘t destroy anything and don‘t make too much noise! Climb only in the described, equipped routes. The climbing of narrow tower, called Sviječa, in the middle of the crag, is explicitly forbidden. Sectors are comfy enough and connected with a network of paths on the scree slopes. You can study some informative panels in between.
Recommended accommodation
ROUTES (from left to right)
Grey limestone is mostly slabby and vertical, with an occasional roof, crack or corner. Holds are quite sharp, from pockets, to big edges and small crimps. Mostly you should rely on good footwork. If anything, the harder routes are more technical and the longer ones will test your finger endurance.
Most routes (except Nad tunelom and multipitches) are fairly short. Basic gear is more than enough. The equipment varies – from good to bad, especially in small, scattered sectors and on multipitches. Climbing here is more old school and romantic. Take your time and embrace some deficiencies.
A – Nad tunelom (Above the tunnel)
Wave of the future | 7a+ | 20m |
Kameleon | 6c | 20m |
ZOO | 6b | 25m |
Nonićev | 6c | 15m |
Fant | 6a+ | 35m |
Sunčana luka | 6a+ | 30m |
Petrin | 6a+ | 30m |
B – Grga
Moje zlo | 6a | 10m |
Grga | 6b | 12m |
Cvrčak | 7a | 10m |
C – Okno (The window)
Fa | 6a | 10m |
Fu | 6c+ | 10m |
Nad oknom | 6a | 10m |
D – Furija
Apogej | 6a | 12m |
Katja | 6b | 12m |
Luna | 6a+ | 12m |
Furija | 6a+ | 12m |
Hydra | 6a | 11m |
E – Rukavica
Huncut | 6c | 25m |
Forma | 6a+ | 15m |
Forma extension | 7a | 25m |
Torpedo | 6b | 25m |
Pukotina | 5b | 25m |
Desni rub | 6b | 25m |
F – Gorgona
Zimbabve | 6b+ | 13m |
Fingerplay | 6c+ | 13m |
Black coffee | 6a | 13m |
Bijelo pranje | 5a | 13m |
Cracker | 6a | 11m |
Motika direct | 5a | 11m |
Motika | 4b | 11m |
Fu – fu | 5c | 11m |
Vježbenik | 7b | 11m |
Gorgona | 6c+ | 11m |
¸T.D. | 6c+ | 11m |
Ružica | 6a | 12m |
Žuta ruža | 6a | 12m |
Bršljanov žlijeb | 5b | 14m |
Ljubica | 6b | 15m |
I am from Austria | 5c | 15m |
G – Fliper
Bršljanov rub | 4a | 13m |
Onaniko | 5c | 12m |
Stojan | 4b | 11m |
Fliper | 6a+ | 10m |
Pinčica | 4b | 10m |
H – Castello (The castle)
Simona | 6c+ | 12m |
Črviček | 6c | 12m |
Tony | 5c | 20m |
Napoleon | 7b+ | 15m |
Utopljena ptica | 6c | 20m |
I – Krokodil
Plastic sausage | 6a+ | 12m |
Amonijak | 6c | 11m |
Dinamit | 6c+ | 11m |
Krokodil | 6a+ | 11m |
Eddie | 6a | 15m |
J – Veliki toranj
You can do it | 5c | 18m |
Comici brid | 6a | 40m |
Odiseja | 6a+ | 15m |
Feniks | 6c | 17m |
Jugozapadni | 4c | 35m |
Crna mačka | 7a+ | 20m |
Californication | 6c+ | 20m |
Tutti frutti | 6a+ | 20m |
K – Ispod tornja
P | ||
P | ||
Smbelox | 6b | 20m |
Fantazija | 7a+ | 22m |
Milanov smjer | 7a+, 7a, 5c | 90m |