Image Alt

Berto’s cave & Balcony

 /  / Berto’s cave & Balcony

For those tired of the crowds in Kompanj, there are two more private, lonely crags in the near vicinity, in fact, on the far left side of Kompanj‘s walls. (For now) just a few routes offer quite a challenge to mostly “better” climbers, especially those skilled in climbing overhangs with a bit of bouldering touch. Berto’s cave is lower, while Balcony offers a bit harder tufa endurance climbs. Amazing view, nice routes and being alone at the crag will make you come back for sure! Another, still undiscovered brilliant climbing spot.

Access

If you can get to Roč, you’re almost there. From there drive towards Kompanj, where you take the left turn at the intersection by the cemetery. Pass the railway and through couple of turns uphill. At the last left turn there is a powerline beside the road. Park and follow uphill under the powerlines for 10 minutes. The path splits a bit to the left at some point and returns just before you reach the rocky ledge which brings you to Berto’s cave. Balcony is 5 more minutes to the right on a exposed Via ferrata.

Weather

Best times are autumn and spring. It is possible to climb also in the winter afternoons in the sun if the tufas are dry (not after heavy rain).

Rock Quality

Berto’s cave & Balcony are relatively new and well equipped.

 

Recommended accommodations

Apartments Roža

Roč 16, 52425 Roč, Croatia

Stay in Apartments Roža and enjoy in one of the best climbing areas in Istria. Roč is an excellent base for climbing in the crags near this charming village. Just a few minutes away by car to Kompanj, Čiritež, Vela draga, Buzetski kanjon or Kamena vrata. We offer two comfortable fully equipped apartments for max. 7 people. Air conditioning, fireplace, unique wine cellar or open terrace makes it comfortable in any season. Welcome to Roč!

Routes (from left to right)

The routes in Berto’s cave are around 15 meters long, nice power endurance challenges on tufas and crimps. Balcony is longer and harder. You will need a 14 set of quickdraws and a 60 meters rope.

Not recommended for kids!

A/1 – Berto’s cave
Little adventure 6a+ 12m
Optional di luso 7b 12m
Romboss 7b 13m
Gestione del gesto 7c+ 14m
Check point 8a 15m
Adesso o mai piu 6b+ 15m
Party boy 6a+ 15m
A/2 – Balcony
In bianco sul bianco P 20m
Attriti coniugali 7c+ 15m
Attriti coniguali extension P 20m
Eccesso di entusiasmo P 20m
Uomo di poca fede 8a+ 23m
Tentazioni proibite 8a 20m
Intrusioni terrose 8b 20m
Mappy new year 7c 22m
Titty twister P 21m
Red Silvia P 19m
Tanto le schivo P 21m
Effetto metanolo 7c+ 18m
Gerbiling 7c 18m
Piu no che si 7c 18m
Semiramide 7a+ 18m