For those tired of the crowds in Kompanj, there are two more private, lonely crags in the near vicinity, in fact, on the far left side of Kompanj‘s walls. (For now) just a few routes offer quite a challenge to mostly “better” climbers, especially those skilled in climbing overhangs with a bit of bouldering touch. Berto’s cave is lower, while Balcony offers a bit harder tufa endurance climbs. Amazing view, nice routes and being alone at the crag will make you come back for sure! Another, still undiscovered brilliant climbing spot.
Access
If you can get to Roč, you’re almost there. From there drive towards Kompanj, where you take the left turn at the intersection by the cemetery. Pass the railway and through couple of turns uphill. At the last left turn there is a powerline beside the road. Park and follow uphill under the powerlines for 10 minutes. The path splits a bit to the left at some point and returns just before you reach the rocky ledge which brings you to Berto’s cave. Balcony is 5 more minutes to the right on a exposed Via ferrata.
Weather
Best times are autumn and spring. It is possible to climb also in the winter afternoons in the sun if the tufas are dry (not after heavy rain).
Rock Quality
Berto’s cave & Balcony are relatively new and well equipped.
Recommended accommodations
Routes (from left to right)
The routes in Berto’s cave are around 15 meters long, nice power endurance challenges on tufas and crimps. Balcony is longer and harder. You will need a 14 set of quickdraws and a 60 meters rope.
Not recommended for kids!
A/1 – Berto’s cave
Little adventure | 6a+ | 12m |
Optional di luso | 7b | 12m |
Romboss | 7b | 13m |
Gestione del gesto | 7c+ | 14m |
Check point | 8a | 15m |
Adesso o mai piu | 6b+ | 15m |
Party boy | 6a+ | 15m |
A/2 – Balcony
In bianco sul bianco | P | 20m |
Attriti coniugali | 7c+ | 15m |
Attriti coniguali extension | P | 20m |
Eccesso di entusiasmo | P | 20m |
Uomo di poca fede | 8a+ | 23m |
Tentazioni proibite | 8a | 20m |
Intrusioni terrose | 8b | 20m |
Mappy new year | 7c | 22m |
Titty twister | P | 21m |
Red Silvia | P | 19m |
Tanto le schivo | P | 21m |
Effetto metanolo | 7c+ | 18m |
Gerbiling | 7c | 18m |
Piu no che si | 7c | 18m |
Semiramide | 7a+ | 18m |