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Brseč

Above the seaside cliffs of the eastern shores of Istria lies a picturesque and cute little village Brseč. Underneath are tall, sometimes overhanging walls, perfect for climbing. Sadly, a big problem here are approaches, those enemies and necessary evil for every sport climber. For climbing, the standout sector is Pod Križ, while for uniqueness and wild factor you should visit Šip, which rises straight from the sea. Other sectors offer completely different climbing experience, with abseils for approach, sketchy belaying, sense of adventure,…

Access

Brseč lies on the eastern coastal road between Plomin (which can be reached via Pazin or Labin) and Medveja/Opatija. You won‘t miss it for the aesthetic factor of the village alone, once you drive past. For sector Pod Križ drive on from Brseč on the main road towards Rijeka. After 2 kilometers there will be an obvious viewing-rest spot on the right. Park and continue on foot on the road. When the railing ends, go down the stone wall on the right, between second and third safety stone. From here the path is obvious, although quite steep and full of ropes and light climbing. The starting point for the other sectors is the parking in front of pizzeria in the village of Brseč.

Weather

This is an all year round crag – season lasts from late autumn to the spring. In between you can try some DWS, so actually you can never miss. The rain wouldn‘t be a problem at some spots, but it will additionally spice up the access – something you don’t want in Brseč.

Rock Quality

The sea water badly affects the metal. Be especially aware of that in sectors Šip and Belićev stup. Often you don‘t even see a bad bolt. Corrosion is like caries: when it‘s obvious, it‘s quite critical. Sector Pod Križ is freshly rebolted with adequate material.

Notes

The spaces under the wall and the approaches are very exposed, even dangerous and should be tackled with necessary calmness and seriousness. This is not a place to joke around! We advise against going here to anyone less experienced or easily frightened, and even less to the beginners and kids. Despite the wild and adventurous character of the crag this is still a nicely equipped crag and the Austrian divers/climbers Ingo Schalk, Gerald Wagner, Martin Sprenger, Gerhard Grabner, Hans Rust and Martin Schitter deserve all the praise for their vision.

Recommended accommodations

Apartments Natali

Golovik 25b, 51417 Moščeniška Draga, Croatia

Apartment Natali is a brand-new apartment located above the village Brseč perfect for climbers who want to climb in Medveja, Moščeniška Draga, Brseč or Rabac. It is ideal for up to 5 people and in low season it will cost from 35€ per night. Welcome!

ROUTES (from left to right)

The rock is, mildly put, fresh. Realistically looking it is sharp, although full of holds (thus the lower grades). Most routes follow the easiest lines on the ledges, holes and cracks, while holds vary from sharp edges to tufa. Sometimes the rock may crumble (like lower part of Belićev stup), but it‘s solid overall. Grab the holds firmly, sloppiness and slips may quickly cut you. Sector Pod Križ is the most sport-climbing friendly, approachable and nicely freshly rebolted. If you‘re not too adventurous, this is the best place to go. Bring 100 meters of rope and all your quickdraws (cca 30), if you want to climb the routes up to the third anchor (to the top of the wall). For other sectors you need knowledge of abseil, rappel, re-tieing, belaying from a hanging belay, lowering, maneuvering in the wall and similar. Bring an extra rope to sector Šip, to fix it for abseil and use again later. Watch out that it doesn‘t fall into sea when you abseil! Anchors aren‘t always easy to find and you may have to lower yourself over the wall edge.

A – Belićev stup
Goldfinger 6b+ 30m
Octopussy 6a+ 35m
Dr. No 6a+ 40m
Casino Royale 6b+ 40m
Moonraker 6a 32m
B – Belićeva stijena
The Ivy Plot 6b 25m
Kitten in the need 6c+ 25m
Wespennest 6b+ 30m
C – Podgrad
Meister Horich 5b 45m
Diver in Danger 7a 50m
Flying Dutchman 6a+ 55m
P ? 25m
Crimson Hawk 6c+ 50m
111 6c 50m
Wanderratz 6a 50m
Ratroof 6b+ 20m
Once upon a time 6a 50m
Feige/Sau 6c+ 50m
Hope 6c 50m
Mullmania 6c 30m
D – Šip
Last Sugar 6c 55m
White Pepper 6c+ 60m
Salty Dog 6a 60m
Medusa 6a 55m
Old Friendship 6b 50m
Ship by Šip 6b+ 50m
Renata 6a+ 50m
Malvasia 5c 45m
Polyphem 6b 35m
Outis (Nobody) 6a 15m
Aiolos 6b+ 35m
E – Pod Križ
Essig Gurkel 5c 20m
? 6b 20m
Viper 6c+ 30m
Viper left extension 6c+ 45m
Viper right extension 6c+ 45m
Hammer King 7c 25m
Anima 7b+ 20m
Schussler 7c+ 28m
Schussler extension 8b 50m
Mirko Borič 6c 30m
Mirko Borič extension 7b 50m
Mathilde 6b+ 17m
Mathilde extension 7b 35m
Mathilde 2nd extension 7c+ 50m
Cut 6a 18m
Cut extension 7a 35m
Cut 2nd extension 7b+ 50m
Made in Austria 7b+ 11m
Lieblingsmensch Irma 7b+ 30m
Izgubljeni dječaci 6c+ 30m
Izgubljeni dječaci extension 7b 50m
Jarilo 6b+ 30m
Jarilo extension 7b 45m
Fishermans friend 6c+ 35m
Volos = Fishermans friend extension going left 7b 50m
Fishermans friend extension 7a 50m
P ? 40m
Wario land 7a 18m
Wario land extension 7b+ 40m
Happy end 8a 45m
Kaotiko 6b 18m
Point break 6b+ 17m
Point break extension 7b 40m
Bodhi extension 7c 38m
Home run 6c 35m