Vela draga

Vela draga

 /  / Vela draga

Vela draga is foremost a breathtaking natural monument of geomorphology and geology, a part of Učka National Park and the location of a walking-learning trail, which will take you into the past of this splendid natural phenomenon, teaching you about animals and plants and long traditions of mountaineering and sport climbing as well. The rock formations are actually better for admiring than for climbing. This is a special historical center of climbing, thanks to Italian Emillio Comici from Trieste, who in 1931 with his partner Stauderi scaled northern side of the Big tower. In 1986 began a more modern equipping of the crag, which continues to this day, although in climbing sense it is not really too special – you should come here for the environment and peace, without big ambitions.

ACCESS

Get going on the motorway from the direction of Buzet towards Učka tunnel. Right before the tunnel use the exit for Labin and Vela Učka. Drive behind the gas station, right and downwards. Cough up some money for the toll and turn left for Labin. Soon you will spot a big parking on your left with some benches. From here a learning trail leads through the woods to the edge of the walls. If you‘re a bit nosy, you will find the way down already at sector Fliper, otherwise there are more trails on the scree slopes, that lead you in the middle of limestone towers. They are then connected with a network of trails and with a bit of orientation skills you should handle yourself quickly.

WEATHER

Best time to climb in Vela draga is from autumn until spring. In winter you will hope for the sun, while in spring and autumn you will search for shady walls. Be careful, snakes!

ROCK QUALITY

The rock in Vela draga is sometimes good, but may, especially at beginnings, crumble a bit. You need a little experience to judge its quality, but as mentioned, you should take the relaxed, patient approach.

ENVIROMENTAL NOTES

You are located in the national park, so act accordingly: take your trash, don‘t destroy anything and don‘t make too much noise! Climb only in the described, equipped routes. The climbing of narrow tower, called Sviječa, in the middle of the crag, is explicitly forbidden. Sectors are comfy enough and connected with a network of paths on the scree slopes. You can study some informative panels in between.

Recommended accommodation

Apartments Roža

Roč 16, 52425 Roč, Croatia

Stay in Apartments Roža and enjoy in one of the best climbing areas in Istria. Roč is an excellent base for climbing in the crags near this charming village. Just a few minutes away by car to Kompanj, Čiritež, Vela draga, Buzetski kanjon or Kamena vrata. We offer two comfortable fully equipped apartments for max. 7 people. Air conditioning, fireplace, unique wine cellar or open terrace makes it comfortable in any season. Welcome to Roč!

ROUTES (from left to right)

Grey limestone is mostly slabby and vertical, with an occasional roof, crack or corner. Holds are quite sharp, from pockets, to big edges and small crimps. Mostly you should rely on good footwork. If anything, the harder routes are more technical and the longer ones will test your finger endurance.

Most routes (except Nad tunelom and multipitches) are fairly short. Basic gear is more than enough. The equipment varies – from good to bad, especially in small, scattered sectors and on multipitches. Climbing here is more old school and romantic. Take your time and embrace some deficiencies.

A – Nad tunelom (Above the tunnel)
Wave of the future 7a+ 20m
Kameleon 6c 20m
ZOO 6b 25m
Nonićev 6c 15m
Fant 6a+ 35m
Sunčana luka 6a+ 30m
Petrin 6a+ 30m
B – Grga
Moje zlo 6a 10m
Grga 6b 12m
Cvrčak 7a 10m
C – Okno (The window)
Fa 6a 10m
Fu 6c+ 10m
Nad oknom 6a 10m
D – Furija
Apogej 6a 12m
Katja 6b 12m
Luna 6a+ 12m
Furija 6a+ 12m
Hydra 6a 11m
E – Rukavica
Huncut 6c 25m
Forma 6a+ 15m
Forma extension 7a 25m
Torpedo 6b 25m
Pukotina 5b 25m
Desni rub 6b 25m
F – Gorgona
Zimbabve 6b+ 13m
Fingerplay 6c+ 13m
Black coffee 6a 13m
Bijelo pranje 5a 13m
Cracker 6a 11m
Motika direct 5a 11m
Motika 4b 11m
Fu – fu 5c 11m
Vježbenik 7b 11m
Gorgona 6c+ 11m
¸T.D. 6c+ 11m
Ružica 6a 12m
Žuta ruža 6a 12m
Bršljanov žlijeb 5b 14m
Ljubica 6b 15m
I am from Austria 5c 15m
G – Fliper
Bršljanov rub 4a 13m
Onaniko 5c 12m
Stojan 4b 11m
Fliper 6a+ 10m
Pinčica 4b 10m
H – Castello (The castle)
Simona 6c+ 12m
Črviček 6c 12m
Tony 5c 20m
Napoleon 7b+ 15m
Utopljena ptica 6c 20m
I – Krokodil
Plastic sausage 6a+ 12m
Amonijak 6c 11m
Dinamit 6c+ 11m
Krokodil 6a+ 11m
Eddie 6a 15m
J – Veliki toranj
You can do it 5c 18m
Comici brid 6a 40m
Odiseja 6a+ 15m
Feniks 6c 17m
Jugozapadni 4c 35m
Crna mačka 7a+ 20m
Californication 6c+ 20m
Tutti frutti 6a+ 20m
K – Ispod tornja
P
P
Smbelox 6b 20m
Fantazija 7a+ 22m
Milanov smjer 7a+, 7a, 5c 90m