Climbing area Vela Draga, Croatia | Climb Istria

Vela Draga

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Vela Draga is foremost a breathtaking natural monument of geomorphology and geology, a part of Učka National Park and the location of a walking-learning trail, which will take you into the past of this splendid natural phenomenon, teaching you about animals and plants and long traditions of mountaineering and sport climbing as well. The rock formations are actually better for admiring than for climbing. This is a special historical center of climbing, thanks to Italian Emillio Comici from Trieste, who in 1931 with his partner Stauderi scaled northern side of the Big tower. In 1986 began a more modern equipping of the crag, which continues to this day, although in climbing sense it is not really too special – you should come here for the environment and peace, without big ambitions.

ACCESS

Get going on the motorway from the direction of Buzet towards Učka tunnel. Right before the tunnel use the exit for Labin and Vela Učka. Drive behind the gas station, right and downwards. Cough up some money for the toll and turn left for Labin. Soon you will spot a big parking on your left with some benches. From here a learning trail leads through the woods to the edge of the walls. If you‘re a bit nosy, you will find the way down already at sector Fliper, otherwise there are more trails on the scree slopes, that lead you in the middle of limestone towers. They are then connected with a network of trails and with a bit of orientation skills you should handle yourself quickly.

WEATHER

Best time to climb here is from autumn until spring. In winter you will hope for the sun, while in spring and autumn you will search for shady walls. Be careful, snakes!

ROCK QUALITY

The rock is sometimes good, but may, especially at beginnings, crumble a bit. You need a little experience to judge its quality, but as mentioned, you should take the relaxed, patient approach.

ENVIROMENTAL NOTES

You are located in the national park, so act accordingly: take your trash, don‘t destroy anything and don‘t make too much noise! Climb only in the described, equipped routes. The climbing of narrow tower, „Sviječa“, in the middle of the crag, is explicitly forbidden. Sectors are comfy enough and connected with a network of paths on the scree slopes. You can study some informative panels in between.

Recommended accommodation

Apartments Roža

Roč 16, 52425 Roč, Croatia

Stay in Apartments Roža and enjoy in one of the best climbing areas in Istria. Roč is an excellent base for climbing in the crags near this charming village. Just a few minutes away by car to Kompanj, Čiritež, Vela draga, Buzetski kanjon or Kamena vrata. We offer two comfortable fully equipped apartments for max. 7 people. Air conditioning, fireplace, unique wine cellar or open terrace makes it comfortable in any season. Welcome to Roč!

ROUTES (from left to right)

Grey limestone is mostly slabby and vertical, with an occasional roof, crack or corner. Holds are quite sharp, from pockets, to big edges and small crimps. Mostly you should rely on good footwork. If anything, the harder routes are more technical and the longer ones will test your finger endurance.

Most routes (except Nad tunelom and multipitches) are fairly short. Basic gear is more than enough. The equipment varies – from good to bad, especially in small, scattered sectors and on multipitches. Climbing here is more old school and romantic. Take your time and embrace some deficiencies.

A – Nad tunelom (Above the tunnel)
Wave of the future 7a+ 20 m
Kameleon 6c 20 m
ZOO 6b 25 m
Nonićev 6c 15 m
Fant 6a+ 35 m
Sunčana luka 6a+ 30 m
Petrin 6a+ 30 m
B – Grga
Moje zlo 6a 10 m
Grga 6b 12 m
Cvrčak 7a 10 m
C – Okno (The window)
Fa 6a 10 m
Fu 6c+ 10 m
Nad oknom 6a 10 m
D – Furija
Apogej 6a 12 m
Katja 6b 12 m
Luna 6a+ 12 m
Furija 6a+ 12 m
Hydra 6a 11 m
E – Rukavica
Huncut 6c 25 m
Forma 6a+ 15 m
Forma extension 7a 25 m
Torpedo 6b 25 m
Pukotina 5b 25 m
Desni rub 6b 25 m
F – Gorgona
Zimbabve 6b+ 13 m
Fingerplay 6c+ 13 m
Black coffee 6a 13 m
Bijelo pranje 5a 13 m
Cracker 6a 11 m
Motika direct 5a 11 m
Motika 4b 11 m
Fu – fu 5c 11 m
Vježbenik 7b 11 m
Gorgona 6c+ 11 m
¸T.D. 6c+ 11 m
Ružica 6a 12 m
Žuta ruža 6a 12 m
Bršljanov žlijeb 5b 14 m
Ljubica 6b 15 m
I am from Austria 5c 15 m
G – Fliper
Bršljanov rub 4a 13 m
Onaniko 5c 12 m
Stojan 4b 11 m
Fliper 6a+ 10 m
Pinčica 4b 10 m
H – Castello (The castle)
Simona 6c+ 12 m
Črviček 6c 12 m
Tony 5c 20 m
Napoleon 7b+ 15 m
Utopljena ptica 6c 20 m
I – Krokodil
Plastic sausage 6a+ 12 m
Amonijak 6c 11 m
Dinamit 6c+ 11 m
Krokodil 6a+ 11 m
Eddie 6a 15 m
J – Veliki toranj
You can do it 5c 18 m
Comici brid 6a 40 m
Odiseja 6a+ 15 m
Feniks 6c 17 m
Jugozapadni 4c 35 m
Crna mačka 7a+ 20 m
Californication 6c+ 20 m
Tutti frutti 6a+ 20 m
K – Ispod tornja
P
P
Smbelox 6b 20 m
Fantazija 7a+ 22 m
Milanov smjer 7a+, 7a, 5c 90 m