Natural park Lijak with its tall wall is another crag, that nicely defies winter and strong winds and is worth visiting for the splendid view alone. In the last years the lower sector filled up nicely, but the best routes (even considering the wider region) await in the upper sector. A mix of technical climbing with tufas and overhangs for sure redeems itself for a bit longer approach. It’s only negative is, you run out of routes too soon. Surely, for a nice winter day or two Lijak will be a perfect choice to discover something new.


Try to get to Loke, a village in direct vicinity of Nova Gorica and aim for a small parking beside the church of St. Magdalena. From here are three ways to sector A: two split to the left on a nice forest trail at first houses, while third follows the road through the village. From here you can continue on the forest trail, to the right split towards taking off point for paragliders and the crag. Once you reach an information panel, go right again on a trail through the woods, across the scree slope and downhill on a steep terrain, which will bring you to the sector B. From here there is only a short walk to sector C.


The wall of Lijak faces south, so this is a winter crag (on a nice day) with extended season into spring and autumn. Summer is too hot due to sunny exposition. Trees in sector B provide some shade, as well as late afternoon in sectors B and C. Although the main wall provides some shelter from the rain, you can’t really climb. The wall gets wet fast, but also dries quickly.


Sectors A and B are nicely and freshly bolted and sector C in usually like that as well, although there can be some confusing bolts and not everything (including the access for the upper routes) is in top notch condition. The rock in mostly solid. To lower off from the long routes you’ll need at least a 60-meter rope.


The area of the Karst spring is a protected natural monument. Due to protection of nature, two lower lying sectors were closed in the past. You are expected to behave in your utmost exemplary manner!

ROUTES (from left to right)

Sector A also called Loke is the easiest to approach and perfectly decent for one climbing day or for warming up for upper walls. Here you will mostly have to be precise and technical with an occasional crux. NOTE! In the hole between routes 3 and 4 an owl sometimes nests. If you spot it, please leave a note that the routes are closed.
Sector B represents the main wall of Lijak, which has some impressive 8s and a bunch of great, a bit technical routes on the right. The second specialty here are the long and multipitch routes, for which you have to get to the upper balcony first. Better than using the old ferrata on the right, is to reach them via Africana route.
Sector C is a couple of minutes of walking on a slope to the right from sector B (don’t go too high). It offers vertical slabs with sharp holds and sometimes long moves, but mostly nice and enjoyable routes for beginners.

Sector A – Loke
Nanjo Navali 6b 18m
Petardo Mauriti 6b+ 18m
Gocce di splendore 6a 18m
Strasturi 6a+ 18m
Sbirri & Compari 6c 23m
La tana del bianconiglio 6b 20m
Signorina anarchia 7a+ 25m
Surrealistic pillow 7b 25m
P ? 25m
Wild West (Grey) 7c+ 23m
Obuti maček 7a+ 25m
Kralj Matjaž 6b 18m
Krščen Matiček 6a 18m
Voodoo 8a 15m
Vipera 5b 15m
Sector B
Pepijev raz 6a+ 20m
Očo Pepi 6a+ 20m
Očo Pepi extension 6b 26m
Zlomljena krila 6b+ 17m
Zlomljena krila extension 7b 23m
Fotokopija 6c+ 18m
Venezia 8a 24m
Bondola (from Venezia into James Bond) 8a 26m
James Bond 8b 26m
P ? 26m
Puščavski pesek 8c 26m
Lastovičji rep (same start as Puščavski pesek, then right) 8a+ 14m
Hitri test 8a 14m
Fly machine 7c+ 13m
Božji dar (Fly machine extension) 8a 24m
Dar bogov 7b, 6a+, 5c 60m
Chicago 7b+ 18m
Iluzije 7c 18m
Voices of freedom 7b 18m
Africana 6c 20m
Pierrot 6c+ 15m
Fatamorgana 7a 15m
Terra Nullis 7a, 7a 65m
Terra Nullis direkt 7a, 7a+ 65m
P ? 60m
P ? 60m
Kanja 5c, 5c, 6a 65m
Antagonist 6a+, 6b+, 6b+ 60m
Sector C
Josephina 5b 18m
Lambada 6a 18m
Minta 6b+ 23m
Minotavra 7a+ 19m
Mungos 6a+ 20m
Šark 6a+ 22m