/  / Dvigrad

Dvigrad – another discovery of mysterious Maurizio Zanolla Manolo – the Italian master of vertical climbing from the 80’s. An excellent quality of rock – perfect grey compact limestone, a beautiful landscape, in the vicinity to the sea, the famous medieval castle of Dvigrad just near,… are more than enough reasons to give a visit to this historical crag in the middle of Istria.


From the Pula – Buje highway take the exit Rovinj/Kanfanar and drive till the small city Kanfanar. Just on the start of it turn left direction Dvigrad. Drive for 5 kilometers passing the medieval castle of Dvigrad then turn right driving through the village of Korenići for 1,2 kilometer and park on your left. From the parking lot take the path going to the right for 10 minutes to reach this special crag.


The wall of Dvigrad is facing south so it’s best season is from late autumn till the beginning of spring, the best days being in winter. In summer the wall gets some shade after 4 PM but the rock still remains warm. Be aware of snakes during the warmer months!

Rock Quality

The rock in Dvigrad is the best grey compact limestone you can ever imagine. It is very solid and it offers a nice variety of holds: from cracks, to pockets and edges.


Dvigrad is home to one of the hardest vertical routes in the world – Malvazija. It was freed by Maurizio Zanolla – Manolo more than 30 years ago and graded as an 8b+. Just a couple of years ago the route got the first repeat by the American Cody Roth and it got upgraded to 8c+ due to some broken holds.

ROUTES (from left to right)

Routes in Dvigrad are all vertical or slightly overhanging. Good foot technique is more than essential and finger power is very much needed as well. It is a typical old school climbing area. Bring a 60 meters rope and about 12 quickdraws.

Sector A
Praz 5b 12m
Poskok 6a+ 12m
Hudu-gurus 6b+ 14m
Smrikva 4b 11m
Copata 6b+ 13m
Pčelinje gnijezdo 7a 13m
X-files 7a+ 13m
Šparoga bluz 7c 11m
Rattlesnakey Nik 4c 14m
Raph Coral snake 6a 14m
Graža 5a 14m
Pašture 5c 14m
Keramička pločica 6c+ 14m
Brombula 4b 14m
Hermine 5a 17m
Anita 5a 17m
Sector B
C.T. 5c 13m
Bolder 7a+ 14m
Il buco del burioso 6b 14m
Črišnja 5a 15m
Bevanda 6c+ 15m
Kičma 7b 15m
Tavana 7b 15m
Šojka 5a 15m
Kada 6a 11m
Parket 6b+ 11m
Smrdoprd 6c 11m
Rigoljub 7b+ 11m
Šipak 4b 11m
Dub 5c 15m
La grigliata 7b 22m
Il clandestino 7c 23m
Malvazija 8c+ 23m
What shall we do for a drunken climber 8c 23m
Pukotina 6b 20m
Divi prasac 7b+ 20m
Lo gnomo 6c+ 20m
Sector C
La fattura 7b 23m
Camomila 6b+ 23m
Il ritmo parlante 7c 23m
Falsa partenza 7c 23m
Otavarium 8a+ 21m
Dovevi pensarci prima 7b+ 23m
Sjekira-Dular 7b 21m
Relja 6b+ 17m
Alergija 5c 17m
Smokvino mliko 6a+ 17m
Na parove razbroj 7a 17m
A rotati 6a+ 15m
8a (without using the left crack) 8a 15m
Vrana 4c 15m
Ambiciozna crta 6b 8m
Connecting people 7c 8m
Priko drage 5c 15m
Otrovna kiša 7a+ 15m
Ditarcuate.com 7b+ 10m
Urlo 6b+ 10m
Praz 6a 10m
Žvahača 5a 6m
Cip et Cop 6b 11m
Miš z Mekinj 6c 8m
Skakavac 5a 11m
Gušter 5b 10m
Bukatela 5a 26m
Rankun 5b 26m
Spone 5c 23m
Črv 5a 16m
V.I.M. 6b+ 15m
Nemoren 5b 6m
Sector D
Tizi 5b 10m
Dodo 5c 10m
Liso 6b+ 10m
Duga 6b+ 11m
Raumer 6c 12m
Biba 6c 13m
Logaritam 7b 15m
Šišmiš 6b 15m
Sonda 7a 14m
muntravo.net.hr 7c 14m
Makinja 6b+ 16m
P ? 16
Noćna mora 6c+ 16m
Ridovka 6a 11m
Drača 6a 11m
Grab 5b 18m
Bijeli glog 5c 18m
Crni glog 5c 18m
Baršudba 6a 18m