Amazing week with hard ascents
@ photo by Anja Bečan
Week fully started with warm sun and beautiful spring-a-like days. The first thing we noticed were young guns destroying the areas like Kompanj and Pandora in Croatian Istria. Staša Gejo from Serbia, but currently studying in Maribor, redpointed Rocket Max (8b) in Kompanj. The same route was repeated as well by Martin Bergant and Janja Garnbret. Martin also climbed Pandora‘s classics like Avatar and 90 days (both 8b). In Avatar Milan Preskar clipped the chains as well, while Tim Unuk managed to send 90 days and Rainini (both 8b) in Kompanj.
Gašper Pintar successfully climbed one of the rarest repeated routes in Mišja peč – Klobasa (8a+). It is a beatiful 7c until the last bolt where you find yourself in a tremendous boulder problem in a slab with no holds and no footholds. The route was first climbed at the end of the 80’s by no other than master itself Tadej Slabe and in the last 25 years got repeated maybe only 5 times? Beside that Pinti also visited Medveja one day where he flashed Venga vecchio (8a) and did another Istrian king line over there called Criogenetica.
Not only the youngsters also a bit more experienced climbers were in the zone. Rok Blagus finished his big project – Karizma, the hard 8b+ in the central part of Mišja peč. Miha Pančur did his first 8b ever – Orcobaleno in Napoleonica, the slabby and crimpy masterpiece in sector Scudo. And Asja Gosar after pregnancy came back with the fast ascent of Veper lady (8b) in Osp.
Beside Slovenian climbers, Jurica Levatić, from Croatia, at the moment studying in Ljubljana repeated Marjetica, the short and the powerful 8b in the shade of Mišja peč. Also famous Barbara Raudner from Austria showed up in Mišja peč after many years where she clipped the chains of Corto, the classic 8a in the left part of Mišja peč