Gregor Šeliga bolted and climbed Kremplja (8b) in Črnotiče

Photo @ Gregor Šeliga in the first ascent of Kremplja (8b) in Črnotiče

Gregor Šeliga – Šeli first ascended a new route, that he bolted a couple of weeks ago, in Črnotiče cave. It begins a bit right from Gibanica (7c+) and follows obvious line in the roof towards left where in the middle it crosses Gnojna bula (8a+). Then it turns diagonal up towards the top on the left side of the cave. For success in Kremplja (8b) he needed only five visits, where the first one was meant only for bolting and cleaning the route.

By Šeli’s words, the route might get a bit easier with time, because of maybe some easier sequences can be found, but for sure not easier than 8a or harder than 8b.

Another brilliant addition to the Tedi’s cave in Črnotiče!

Why another Tedi’s cave? Because years ago, on the end of the 80’s and the beginning of the 90’s, Tadej Slabe aka Tedi had a weekend house in the Črnotiče village. He used this garage size cave, just a couple of hundred meters away, to train for his main goals at that time. As you almost should know, he first ascended Za staro kolo in majhnega psa (8c+) in Mišja peč back in 1992 and at that time, that was probably the fourth hardest route in the world. Only Hubble (8c+) in UK, Just do it (8c+) in Smith Rocks, USA and Action direct (9a) in Frankenjura existed before. He waited for 6 years to get the first repeat and a grade cofirmation by Spaniard Pedro Pons in 1998. From then on it was repeated only six times and is now known as a hard powerful classic 8c+.

Za staro kolo in majhnega psa or in English »For an old bike and a small dog« is a poem written by his wife Barbara Suša and it goes like this (only in Slovene):

“Še štiri dni!
In prideš!
Tako te imam rad,
da bi ti podaril svoje
staro kolo in majhnega psa
in vesel bi bil, če bi se
z njim peljala k meni,
vrtela bi pedala
in se smejala
in pes bi tekel poleg.
Jaz pa bi šel peš
po cesti navzdol
iz gostilne domov
in bi si rekel:
Še štiri dni!
In prideš!
In ko boš prišla, draga,
strah me bo,
da ne bi hotela spet ostati
kar za zmeraj,
kot kakšna ljuba žena,
da ne bi mogel več čakati,
ne dnevov šteti
in ne bi nikdar na kolo se spomnil
in tudi ne na psa,
ki zvesto zraven teče.”

Come on, new strong bouldery climbers, this beautiful and hard masterpiece is waiting for you in Mišja peč! In almost 28 years it was only done by Tadej Slabe (1992), Pedro Pons (1998), Urh Čehovin (2001), Uroš Perko (2002), Jure Golob and Kilian Fischhuber in 2004, ten years later by Adam Ondra and in 2016 by Jernej Kruder.

In Mišja peč, last week Jakob Bizjak smashed Missing drink (8b+). His last route easier than 8c in Mišja peč. Maybe it’s time for you to try the famous Za staro kolo in majhnega psa (8c+), dude 😉.

And Miha Hribar ticked the long Pikova dama (8b) in the central part of Mišja peč. As a strong boulderer, also another good contender for Za staro kolo in mahjnega psa (8c+), I guess. Come on guys, try hard!

Pikova dama (8b) was also climbed by Robert Pečenko as it’s hardest to date! Keep on crushing folks!