Notable ascents in Istria’s climbing scene
Matjaž Zorko’s 4th ascent of Malvazija (8c+) in Dvigrad
Matjaž Zorko is a Slovenian climber who made the 4th ascent of the difficult Malvazija (8c+) route in Dvigrad, in Croatian part of Istria. The route is known for its technical and sustained climbing, with small holds and intricate footwork required. Zorko’s ascent was particularly notable because the route had only been climbed three times in 35 years previously. We have published news with Ale Zeni’s ascent of Malvazija last month. Here is the link to the video of Matjaž’s uncut ascent.
Malvazija represents one of the main white wines of Croatian Istria and the north Dalmatian coast. The vine was introduced to the area by Venetian merchants who brought cuttings from Greece. It is the main white wine in the region.
An 18-year-old Hungarian climber Valyi Gergo climbed Talk is cheap (8c) and Strelovod (8c). Both routes are known for their steep and demanding climbing, with small holds and powerful moves required. Gergo’s ascents were particularly impressive given his age.
Pole climber Piotrek Bialas made an impressive ascent of powerful Missing link (8b+) in the right part of Mišja peč.
Then, Domen Kolenko ticked No fly zone (8b), a slightly steep and bouldery route in the same area.
Italian local climber Andrea Pustetto clipped the chains of Klobasa (8a+), slabby, bouldery and tricky 8a+. He thinks the route deserves the original grade of 8a+, not 8b as consider by some other climbers. It is just an old school climbing style of the route that seems to be harder to the new generations of climbers.
In the Osp area:
Croatian female climber, Inga Patarčić, redpointed Laokoon (8a) in the big cave of Osp. She redpointed Trojanski konj (7c+) and onsighted the three bolts long extension named Laokoon (8a).
Good job to all of you! See you at the crag!