Osp the big wall


Millions of years ago, when dinosaurs roamed around Kozina, two underground caves were formed under the Karst edge (*prehistoric details are purely the author’s speculation). The crash of the deadly meteorite, that rearranged the cards of living species, also caused the roofs of these caves to collapse, which many years later led to ideal conditions for one of the best climbing centers in the whole world, which even today, after several decades of conquer hasn’t lost its momentum. Apart from hundreds of routes covering the whole spectrum of difficulty, the crags are situated in a picturesque rural setting in the corner of Slovenia blessed with a mild climate. Maybe some routes are polished and maybe the crowds in peak season are not your thing, and despite the fact that climbers aren’t the most welcome visitors here, the Osp area can without shadow of doubt be mentioned in the same breath as any other climbing Mecca.

Banje (also called Behind the village) is a playground for technical climbers with vertical routes, which are surrounded on both sides by overhangs. Babna (also called The Balcony) is considered the most popular crag in the area, being just a bit harder than Črni Kal and easier than Mišja peč, with long routes on vertical and slightly overhanging walls.

But there are actually three more different crags. Srnjak is a nice sector, but in the shade of other areas, the climbing in the Big Wall is slowing down for a while, but your true attention should be directed at the magnificent The big cave of Osp with epic routes in a sea of tufa.


Driving from Črni kal down the valley of Osp, after the sign for the village of Osp by the first house on the left, turn right on a dirt road and after 50 meters you will find the parking. There is a sign that you have to pay the parking 5€/day, but nobody is checking that anymore, so no need to do it. First walk back to the main road towards the village.

For sectors Babna and Banje pass the bridge, then use one of the two paths uphill through the village and you will soon reach the first crag (turn right and up upon reaching the church). For Babna the path extends onwards and uphill. Use only clear, official paths.

For sectors Srnjak, The big cave of Osp and The big wall just before the bridge turn right until you reach an old playground, from where you follow the path up towards the wall, over three bridges and some slopes. For Srnjak go left before the steep slope and cross the dry riverbed, which can also lead you to The big cave of Osp with some more walking.


The ideal periods for climbing in Osp are from autumn until spring, when you can hardly miss a good day – you can climb even in the rain (especially Mišja peč or the big cave of Osp). Most of the winter has excellent conditions, unless you get one of the cold, windy, rainy days. When it gets dangerously hot in the summer, you can start looking for shade: it can be found in Banje, on the sides of Mišja peč and in Črni kal. The big cave of Osp is a different story: it depends on the lake that appears out of nowhere – unless you have a kayak with you. After long periods of rain the tufas can get quite wet.


Osp is very well maintained. The bolts are new and bolted in a friendly fashion. There are anchors with carabiners almost everywhere. The quality of the rock is also great – but be careful while climbing longer routes on the right side of Babna, where an occasional hold may break off. Sometimes a loose rock may be launched on the climbers by naughty animals above the wall. The comfort under the wall is generally excellent, even for children – if they manage to walk all the way up.

In Osp cave the rock is quite soft, so try to avoid climbing on big tufas and blobs when there are wet or humid as they might break. Big Wall deteriorates more on the upper part, where you also need some courage and experience with climbing multi pitches. Routes are bolted nicely, but do mind the worn out quickdraws. There is room for the entire village under the wall.


The Karst edge is situated in an exceptional natural environment with a biological explosion of species, out of which 277 are endangered and 28 endemic. Apart from that, this area supports a mainly rurally oriented population, that cherishes peace and a respectful attitude. Even though spheres of interest of many groups meet in the area, the climbers should be the least problematic, which many times isn‘t the case. If you personally don‘t care about preserving a good relationship with locals, the unspoilt Karst heritage and Mediterranean nature, at least try to behave for the sake of the climbing community, that often carries the consequences of outbursts of individuals.


Hostel Ociski Raj

Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well many opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.

Vila Robida

Vila Robida

Črni kal 61, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenia

New Hotel *** – Vila Robida in Črni Kal, only 5min to the queen of Slovenian top level climbing – Mišja Peč, Osp, Črni Kal! Best views of the Slovenian Istria. Old stone house fully renovated. Heated outdoor pool from 1.4 – 1.11., VIP Sauna & SPA and a Gourmet pleasures in the restaurant Kraški rob. Elegantly furnished 9 rooms and 3 big apartments by the pool.

ROUTES (from left to right)

Banje is characterized by vertical routes of middle grades and a bit harder routes over the bulges with explicit cruxes. Babna is more diverse and offers a lot of joy for complete beginners in vertical routes on sharp holds, requiring good footwork. Harder routes in 7s become slightly overhanging, long, technical endurance pieces, and later also the power comes into play. Around 8s the routes start to dwindle. There are also some multipitches. Old routes can be very polished and many are full of artificially chipped holds.
The standard gear is adequate. Still, be aware of the route lengths – sometimes even an 80 m rope is a bit short. You need almost 20 QDs for longer routes.

Srnjak offers easier vertical routes with sharp holds and small footholds. There are some nice multipitches in the Big Wall, but take your time with those. The big cave of Osp has classic endurance pieces, the best from 7a and more. The holds are good, with many tufas and mushrooms. You will get a a lot of pumping until you get cramps, true 3D climbing and many interesting cruxes. Of course you need to adapt to this style a little, but once you get going, it‘s the best.

Routes are looong, even over 50 meters, but due to the overhang you can use 80 meter rope. You will also need a lot of quickdraws, at least 16. For the Big wall you usually don‘t need extra gear (nuts, friends,…), but they can come in handy. Watch out, as the sand deteriorates you gear. In Srnjak and Big Wall it is advised to wear a helmet.

A – Sector Behind the village AKA Banje
Osapski pajek 8b+ 18m
Matičkov svet 8b 18m
Osapska mumija 8b 18m
Karies 8a+ 18m
Vinko Coce 8b 18m
Gronolom 8a 19m
Šamanski prehod 7c 21m
Amazonka 6b 21m
Ženska finalna 88 6b 18m
Indijanka 6a+ 18m
The Long Run 7a 20m
Triceratops 7c 20m
Paris – Dakar 7c 20m
Pariški vrt 7b 20m
The Garden 7c+ 20m
Mlado vino 7b 20m
Supersok 7c 23m
Superhik 6c+ 35m
Varianta Superhik 6c+ 32m
Varianta Poljanski biser 6c+ 32m
Poljanski biser 7a+ 32m
Uparjalnik 7c 32m
Super Elio 7a+ 27m
Super Emil 6c 27m
Super luknja 6a 25m
Super Elica 6a+ 25m
Tačko 6c 25m
Le mavrica 7b 26m
Domana 7c+ 15m
Virus 7c 15m
Jebiga 6b+ 25m
Skriti zaklad (1.part) 7b+ 25m
Skriti zaklad (to the top) 7b+ 37m
Super beta 7a 26m
Banje (1st part) 7b 19m
Banje (to the top) 7b+ 33m
P ? 19m
Gad 8a 19m
Osapska 7c 35m
Kalifornija 7c 22m
Kranjski Janez 7c 35m
Polnočni kavboj 7c 20m
Galeb 7b 30m
Jonathan Livingstone 7a 33m
Jonagold 7c 23m
Poročna noč 7c 23m
Zakonska kriza 7c 23m
Festivalska 7c 20m
Branko 7b+ 20m
Brankova kriza 7b+ 20m
Mibranko 6c+ 20m
Miklavž 7b 18m
Božiček 6c+ 18m
Alenka L.T. 6b+ 14m
Dedek Mraz 6c 18m
B – Sector The Balcony AKA Babna
Pišta, Feri, Lajči 3 16m
Ledika 4a 16m
Mufta 4b 15m
Bograč 5a 18m
Gibanica 4c 18m
Taca muca 6b+ 20m
Caprice 7a+ 23m
Sapramiška 7b 21m
Pablo pes 7c 21m
Puzza di Cipolla 7b 21m
Mai una gioia 7b+ 25m
Fantastic Voyage 8a+ 25m
Mosquitos wall 7b+ 19m
Črna gradnja 8a 23m
Buena suerte 7b+ 19m
Idealist 7a+ 19m
Jebena zima 7b 35m
Trio Fantasticus 1.part 6c+ 20m
Trio Fantasticus 7a 34m
Leva bunkica 6c 16m
Desna bunkica 6b+ 16m
Senza corrente 7c+ 15m
Hrenovnjača 6b+ 12m
Bohomurček 6b 12m
Ospomaniak 1.part 6c+ 16m
Ospomaniak (to the top) 7a 37m
El Garbo 7a+ 16m
Vstopite in se veselite 6b 10m
Grofice 6b+ 10m
Tantalove muke 7a 35m
Rutka 4b 30m
Kameleon 6c+ 35m
Daleč stran je sodni dan 7b 34m
Si puo fare 7b+ 35m
Eolo 7c 30m
Eolo (to the top) 7c+ 35m
Fragile 1.part 7b+ 25m
Fragile (to the top) 7c 35m
Sončni dnevi 7b 21m
Rainy days 7b 21m
Ko bo padal dež 7c+ 35m
Frenki boy 7c+ 35m
Šok terapija 7b 16m
Joint 7b 35m
Demolition party 7a+ (6c, 7a) 35m
Češpljevi cmoki 6c+ 19m
RKC 8a 23m
Veper lady 8b 25m
Martinova gos 8a+ 25m
Zadnja skušnjava 8a 23m
Vegas 7 8a+ 23m
Brancin 8a+ 23m
Delirium tremens 7b 30m
Maudit 7a+ (7a, 7a+) 43m
Zmedeni in zadeti 6b+ 15m
Pretty lady 6c+ 19m
Proletarska 7b 38m
Pretty baby 6b+ (6a+, 6b+, 6a) 50m
El diablo 7a 20m
Črna ovca 6c 13m
Don Nino 6b+ 35m
Dolgotacko 6c 27m
Jaslice 6c+ 38m
Olympic 7a 28m
Derniere surprise 6c (6b+, 6c) 42m
Le tapis volant 6b+ (6b+, 6a) 42m
Belle epoque 6a+ 20m
Ženski četrtfinale 88 6a 21m
Murphyjev zakon 6c+ 16m
Mirage 6c (6a, 6c) 42m
Sobotna priloga 6b+ (6a+, 6b+) 42m
Chat noire 6b 24m
Hard rain 6b+ (6b+, 6b+) 45m
Prišlek 6b+ 45m
Tormiento 6c 22m
Tarantela 6c+ (6b+, 6c+) 40m
Minister za zmedo 6b+ 37m
Navihanke 6c 15m
Mr.Hilti 6b+ 20m
New look 6b 20m
Potion magique 6b 19m
Tora bora 6c+ 16m
Just married 6b+ 20m
No siesta 6b 20m
Le plasir de la soir 6a+ 23m
Take it easy 6c 33m
Steber jutranje zvezde 6c+ (6b+, 6c+, 6c) 65m
Killing me softly 1. part 6a+ 25m
Killing me softly 7a+ 37m
Killing me hardly 7a+ 37m
Špehova 6a 24m
Sea snake 7a+ 37m
Moon safari 7b 37m
Solitudine 6b+ (5c, 6b+) 40m
Love story 5c 24m
Ledeno vino 6a 25m
Vik in krik 6a+ 23m
Piccola peste 6b (6a, 5c, 4b, 6b, 6a+) 85m
Ledena sveča 6a+ 25m
Tiare Tipanie 5a 20m
Maeva 4b 20m
Čebelica Maja 3 15m
Fetia ura 7c+ 30m
Črni biser 7c 30m
Sužnji vertikale 7a+ 30m
Za oslovo senco 7a+ 26m
Il castigo 6b+ 25m
Epena 7a+ 26m
A tout coeur 7a (6b, 6a, 7a) 65m
Toute de force 7a 19m
Severi ma giusti 6c 23m
Dolores 6a+ 20m
Čauko 6a 23m
Il giardino dell aephiornis 6b (6a, 5b, 5b, 6b) 75m
Rawhide 6b (6a+, 6b) 40m
C – Sector Srnjak
Lijin vrt 6b+ 30m
T.O. Zelena dolina 7a+ 30m
Raz 7a+ 30m
Hopla konopla 7c 30m
4800s 7a+ 32m
Govorna driska 7a 32m
Me cago en el amor 6c+ 35m
Ringlšpil 6b 38m
Judežev poljub 7a+ 32m
Poletna noč 6c 30m
Bolj star, bolj nor 6a+ 36m
B.F. – posestnik iz Ospa 6b 36m
Sveta preproščina 6c+ 37m
Urad za nepremičnine 7a+ 37m
Silvo Faruški 6c+ 45m
Noč čarovnic 6a 25m
Ptičja gripa 5b 25m
Angel Gabriel 6a 22m
Javornik 6c (6c, 6b+, 6b) 50m
Čudna so pota ljubezni 6a+ 20m
D – Sector The Big Cave of Osp
Pila 6b+ 30m
Žagca 6c+ 30m
Žaga 6a+ 35m
Sekolar 6b 35m
Steber spominov 7a+ (6a, 7a+, 6c+, 6b, 6a) 85m
Vitez iz Poljan 7a 30m
Z balonom do sreče 7a 30m
Pikapoka 7b 30m
Pooping without peeing 7b+ 30m
Dance without sleeping 7b 30m
Poskus ni ples 7b+ 30m
Try (just a little bit harder) 7b 30m
Try (just a little bit harder) 7b+ (7b, 6c+, 7b+, 7b, 6c, 7a) 140m
4 bis (same start as Tržaška, then left) 7b+ 30m
Bazoviška (same start as Tržaška, then straight) 7a+ 20m
Tržaška smer L1 7b 25m
Tržaška smer (L1 + L2) 7b+ 35m
Tržaška smer 7b+ (7b+, 7b+, 7a, 6b+, 6a) 95m
Varianta Tržaške – Supernova 7a+ (7b, 6b, 6a) 80m
Leon 8b 35m
Mamka Bršljanka 6c 20m
Working Leon 8c 35m
Working class hero 8b 35m
Water world 9a 55m
Poletna poč 6c+ 12m
Osapska pošast L1 7c+ 25m
Bala Bala 8b (8b, 7c, 6c,7c,7a+) 140m
Osapska pošast 8c 55m
Helikopter v pošasti 8c 55m
Helikopter v omaki 8b 26m
Bitka s stalaktiti 8b 55m
Baram Baram 8a 20m
Revolucija 8c+ 30m
Halupca 1979 9a 27m
Troja 8a+ 25m
Troja extension 8c 40m
Couch surfing (2nd extension of Troja) 8c+ 55m
Trojanski konj 7c+ 18m
Laokoon (extension of Trojanski konj) 8a 25m
Zimovc 6b 8m
Sedmica 6c 8m
Active discharge L1 8a 25m
Active discharge (to the top) 8b+ 55m
Jerca Žverca 7b 15m
Šatida Bagaba 6a+ 15m
Rudolfo 5c 15m
The secret project  (extension of Rudolfo) 8c+ 55m
Aktivna burja 7b+ 35m
Leva burja 7b+ 30m
Črna burja – Bora scura (L1) 7b 30m
Črna burja – Bora scura (to the top) 7c (7b, 7c, 7b, 7c, 7a+, 6c) 140m
Magična goba – Fungo magico (L1 + L2) 7b 40m
Magična goba – Fungo magico 7c (6b, 7b, 6c, 7b+, 7c, 6b) 140m
5 prijateljev 7c 40m
Tine 7c+ 40m
E – Sector The big wall
Štafetna logika (L1) 6b 20m
Štafetna logika 6c+ 37m
Stara 8b+ (5a, 7a, 8b+, 7a, 4b, 5c, 6b+) 130m
Zimska simfonija 7b+ (5a, 7a, 7b+, 7a, 6c, 6b+) 130m
Psycho 6a+ 35m
Una storia 6a+ 35m
Bereit, wenn sie es sind dr. Lecter 5c 25m
Kopfuber 5a 20m
Prečenje 7a (3, 4c, 4a, 7a, 4b, 5c, 6b+) 110m
Velika zveza 7a (3, 4c, 4a, 6b+, 7a, 6a+, 6b) 110m
Internacionala 7a (3, 4c, 6a, 7a, 6a, 6b+, 6b+) 110m
Netopir 6b+ (3, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+) 110m
Špargelj direkt 7b+ (7a+, 7b+, 7b) 115m
Svinjam diamante 7b (6b, 7b, 6c+) 115m
Medo 5c (3, 5b, 5c, 5c) 110m
Super muha 6b+ (5b, 6b+, 6a+) 70m
Goldfinger 6c (5c, 6b, 5a, 6c, 6b+) 85m
Fuga da Alcatraz 6b (6a+/b, 6a+, 6a+, 6a) 80m
N.N. 6c+ (6c+, 6a, 6b) 80m
Italjanska smer 6b 80m
Angel nero 7a+ 80m
Trst je naš 6c+ 80m
Cosa nostra 7a 70m
Il signore degli elementi 7a 70m
Piccola troia 6b+ 45m