Projects in Istria
If you think that all the routes in Istria have been climbed, you are completely wrong. There are unclimbed projects waiting for the first ascents in almost all the crags. So, what are you waiting for? Go and crush them! Here is the list, which is not complete as the virgin rocks are almost everywhere. Have in mind as well, that all the projects are not finished, not cleaned or need some reinforcement for some holds not to break off.
As usual we can start with the queen of Istrian climbing, Mišja peč.
- In between Galaktika (8a) and Strta srca (8a+) exists an old short power endurance testpiece on small tufas, undercuts and edges. It was tried quite a bit years ago by Uroš Perko and Klemen Vodlan, probably somewhere around 8c.
- Krvave dimlje (7b+) extension is a bit contrieved line bolted by Luka Biščak as it makes you climb on the top more and more to the right towards Pikova dama (8b).
- Rok Blagus bolted Mišek Jakob, which starts in Triad (8a), then after the first part on tufas goes just straight up to the top of the wall. Magnificent line which needs more attention.
- Then you have Katzo, bolted by Mario Cortese, a bit eliminated line in between J.S.F.K. (7c+) and Figa (7b). The start is cool, but on the top is quite more natural to follow the tufa of Figa (7b). The question here is, should bolts be removed or a line just a bit changed?
- Lisičji raz (7b) direct is an awkward boulder on slopers on the arete. Not as hard, just a bit strange. Waiting for first ascent.
- Left of Osapski pajek (8b+) used to be a route with a lot of glued holds in the 90’s, but then someone removed them all, but bolts have remained there. The lower part looks extremely hard, but a kind of deviation is totally possible from the second bolt of Osapski pajek going to the left, while the upper part seems more doable. 8 something?
- In between Banje (7b) and Gad (8a) exists another crimpy blank nightmare bolted by Mitja Peternelj.
Also in the big cave of Osp you can find some remaining projects:
- Baram Baram direct is another old project bolted by Luka Zazvonil. There are still his old quickdraws in. In case you try it, check the quickdraws first.
- Baram Baram (8a) extension was bolted and cleaned by restless Klemen Bečan. Unfortunately, he never tried it. It ends on the anchor of Revolucija (8c+), so it has a possibility to continue even in Couch surfing (8c+). Adam Ondra tried it the other day and commented:”I took a quick look at Baram Baram extension. Would require a bit reinforcing, but cool bouldery section.”
- Čez lukne aka Devils’eye is another Klemen Bečan‘s project, which needs a lot of reinforcements of mainly all the holds in the lower part. For Klemen’s taste maybe even too much!? His comment is:”Where is the limit between natural and artificial route?”
- Revolucija extension, a powerful 8c+ in a roof, followed by a good rest on a tufa in full roof, another hard crux and almost all of Couch surfing (8c+)…possible 9 something?
In the garage size cave of Črnotiče:
- On the far left side you can find an old very steep and bouldery Tedi‘s (Tadej Slabe) project. If you want to try it, check first the quality of the bolts, maybe it requires rebolting?
Summer climbing area near Sežana named Skedenj will officially reopen soon.
- Skedenj also hosts some hard unclimbed stuff, even to bolt. Let’s wait first it opens officialy. Projekt OSP, when?
In classical Napoleonica:
- In sector Grotta delle Cane exists another one, Jojelly, a bit shorter and steeper.
- Offers two projects in the right wall, Ultimo tango and Gratton pour homme.
Secret spot Baratro above Trieste:
- Has some extremely hard projects in the centre of the cave.
- Two steep and quite short projects in Muhova stena are waiting for you.
- Some projects in sector Oltarji need their first ascents.
- Also amazing sector Crinale has some unfinished business to offer.
Summer spot Pazinska jama (will be on our page in the next months, before the season there starts!)
- Is a new climbing area, so also the projects are freshies and there is still potential to bolt even more.
- One hard and steep project is waiting for you in the cave on the left of A Giant File (8a).
– In sector Knezgrad the only remaining project is a bouldery extension to Total extreme (8a).
The most known climbing area of Croatian Istria, Kompanj:
- A slabby project in sector Klobasi right from Hajvan (7c+) is still undone.
- In the right cave called Olymp there is the old Marcus Bock‘s project, direct start to Der Berg ruft (8b).
A new addition to Istrian climbing by Angy Eiter, Bat Cave:
- Two projects are waiting for first ascent, Wings for life and Gotham, both should be around 8b.
In short and steep Rock’n’Roč:
- You have one project in the center of the cave going right into Import Export (8a+).
- And two sharp and hard ones in the right part of the wall.
- In sunny Zimski sector, in the left cave there is a sharp and magnificent one, around 8b. On the right wall, Stone love (8a) direct in the upper wall waits for FA.
- In sector Slap you have many hard projects.
- In sector Pengari, Mirna (8a+) direct start is still undone.
- Sector LIKE also offers a bunch of unfinished business.
- 90 days (8b) direct exit waits for its first ascent.
- Blob (8c) direct exit instead of going into Avatar (8b) is still a project.
- Right from Blob (8c) exists Jorg Verhoeven‘s project. Adam Ondra tried it and said it could be around 9b.
- Hello Big bird is around 8c+. It was tried by Klemen Bečan and Domen Škofic and remained unclimbed. You can see the video of Klemen trying it here, It looks amazing! It climbs just next to the waterfall in rainy days, that is why many holds are always dirty and they need constant brushing.
Newish Berto’s cave and Balcony
- In sector Balcony there are six Gabriele Gorobey‘s hard projects.
- In Hallelujah cave you can find some abandoned projects.
- In sector Frat there is still one Gabriele Gorobey – Sbisi‘s project.
Let’s wait for better weather and then let’s go and crush them!