Old bolts

Climbing news + WARNING!

Old bolts from sector Babna in Osp @ photo by Project OSP

We are back again a bit later than usual. Eh, that’s life, come on!

In the last two weeks, weather was more than perfect with temps being over the average for the October, everything dry to climb on, perfect climbing conditions in the shade, sea temperature still above 20C, so perfect to relax after a full day of climbing. Hopefully it stays like this still for quite a bit of time.

In Val Rosandra, in sector Caprette, old gun Luka Zazvonil redpointed Tonto total (8c), calling it soft even if it was his first 8c after 6 years. Bravo Luka!

Then in Mišja peč, local Trieste based Luca Bacer crushed one of the most beautiful routes over there, Kaj ti je deklica (8b+). The same route was done as well by the Czech climber Olin Klapal. Congrats!

In Buzetski kanjon, in summer sector Befana, Polish climber named Konrad Ociepka executed and fired Lap dance (8b) on his second go, while he needed two more tries to close down the hardest route of the sector, Klemen Bečan’s masterpiece called Chica latina (8b+). Good score, dude!

A bit further, in the same climbing area, but in the sector Slap, local Marko Kalčić climbed super steep and challenging Finta di mona (8b+).

Then in Moščeniška draga, in sector Zijavica Mario Velčić freed a project right from Remmi Demmi (7a), named it Kap and graded it as 7c, soon afterwards it was flashed by local legend Gianfranco Dušić who confirmed the grade. Also, a new project was bolted there. Right from the route Giant S (7c) and left from Sam svoj majstor (7a) a new challenge is waiting for all the hardcore climbers willing to leave some mark in our beautiful Istria.

Our famous alpinist Silvo Karo took the bolting machine back in his hands and bolted a new route in Črni kal, in between Rokova (6c) and Ledeni možje (6c) he established Šnops, a short bouldery 6c, which grade still needs to be confirmed. Thanks Silvo for so many contributions in our favourite climbing spots!

And now to some more serious stuff! WARNING! Our Polish friend Bartek Sabela wrote us, as he fell in Kindergarten, the classic 7a+ endurance pitch on tufas in the left part of Mišja peč. When he fell on some old permanent quickdraws, his rope got cut. Thankfully the rope didn’t cut totally, so he is still safe and sound. We know that there are many old, really damaged quickdraws in routes all around Mišja peč, mainly in some “easy” routes. Don’t use them as they can seriously get you injured or even killed. Check them first, if they don’t seem ok, throw them in rubbish. Projekt OSP is making a lot work there, but it’s hard to have everything under control. They are making a really good job, so if you want to contribute, do it here!

Anyways, we think that we really don’t need the quickdraws hanging all over like decorations on the New Year’s tree. Also, we understand that sometimes on the crux where it is hard to clip, it is needed, but this is taking care of by Project OSP. So please, in all the easy routes use your quickdraws. Have in mind that this is not an indoor climbing gym with all the permanent draws that are under control all the time. Anyways you don’t pay an entry to get in Mišja peč or almost any other outdoor climbing spot in the world as you do for a climbing centre, so have in mind that you are climbing on your own responsibility.

There were also reported some moving glued bolts in routes as Bula (7b+) and Corto (8a) in Mišja peč which will be repaired ASAP by Project OSP. So for now, please avoid these serious danger situations in those routes!

BTW, Project Osp rebolted 171 bolts and 21 anchors last weekend in sector Babna in Osp and in sector above the village of Osp. Thank you Jurij Ravnik, Rajko Zajc, Štefan Wraber and all the crew!

Once more, a contribution of a few Euros for your favourite climbing area is something everybody should do, link once more here!

Compare this price to an entry to your cosy and dusty climbing gym.

And of course, enjoy the rocks in Istria!

Free debate of those issues is open on our Facebook page.

Have fun, guys and gals!