Martin Bergant redpoints Xaxid hostel (9a) in Mišja peč
photo @ Mišja peč
Latest climbing news come from currently hot spot Mišja peč, where nice weather and autumn holidays nicely welcomed climbers from all over the world. The hardest route climbed was Xaxid hostel (9a) by Slovenian World Cup competitor, Martin Bergant. This is his second 9a. Xaxid hostel is characterized by the hardest first part of about 15 meters on micro crimps, small pinches and shitty footholds and graded by itself as an 8c+. Then you have a good rest and another 20 meters of hard climbing with another crux in the roof near the top of the central part of majestic Mišja peč.
Besides that, he also did the beautiful and long classic Kaj ti je deklica (8b+) with his colleague Milan Preskar. Martin’s girlfriend, also World Cup competitor, Lana Skušek, fired the powerful and artificial Mrtvaški ples (8b) and Giljotina (8a) at the same crag.
We can say, Mišja peč was full of foreign climbers these days. Brazilian Vinicious Todero onsighted the classic Samsara (8a) and Tekila (8a). He onsighted also Neytiri (8a) in super steep Pandora, in Croatia.
Lucija Tarkuš did Iglu (8a) and Tekila (8a). Ema Galeova from Czech republic ticked popular Samsara (8a), also from Czech republic Honzal Novak fired Missing link (8b+), all of course in Mišja peč.
Only 11 years old girl Naja Isak climbed her second 8a by clipping the chains of Corto (8a). Check the full video of her ascent here.
Also in Mišja peč, Bor Savnik redpointed long Pikova dama (8b), while 17 years old Hungarian Attila Zsombor Radics flashed Samsara (8a).
For sure we have missed some news from Mišja peč lately, but we will try to collect and publish them in the next days.
At this points we have to congrats to Projekt OSP , who once again did a great job by rebolting a bunch of routes in Črni kal and in Osp, in sector Nad vasjo or Banje, however you want to call it. Feel free to donate a couple of Euros here and help them to maintain our beloved climbing areas.
In summer sector Befana, in Buzetski kanjon, Austrian Martin Sobotka ticked soft Lap dance (8b). Here we have to inform you, that the old parking on the end of the dirt road is closed. Police is already given tickets there, so please avoid it. Now it is allowed only to park just before the dirt road on the left side.
In sunny Kompanj, another Austrian, Matthias Schiestl redpointed the amazing routes, Fortyfeed woman (8b) and Rainini (8b). In Buzetski kanjon, in sector Pengari, he also onsighted the soft Too late (8a).
In Krkuž, Klemen Bečan bolted and did another first ascent of a route now named Žila and a proposed grade of 8b+.
Stay tuned as many more news are about to come out soon!