Mišja peč

Mišja peč – the queen of Slovenian top level climbing. With its horseshoe shape it brings luck to all good climbers. In the last couple of years a lot of easier routes were bolted, and climbers got better as well, so Mišja peč finally lost its infamous label of an elitist playground, though you may still get a funny look if you study a “warmup“ route for the 8‘s for too long. It helps if you are strong. And have excellent technique, along with stamina. In fact, you need to be good at everything.

Driving from Črni kal down the valley of Osp, after the sign for the village of Osp by the first house on the left, turn right on a dirt road and after 50 meters you will find the parking of Mišja peč.. There is a sign that you have to pay the parking, but now nobody is controlling that, so you don’t need to pay it. When going uphill use well trodden paths – you will get to the left or the right part of the crag, then just follow the wall around.

Mišja peč withstands the worst conditions – even rain and wind can‘t touch it. In the summer there is enough shade on the sides (especially the right) – shame that the routes are unrewarding. In the winter the warmest place is the Beach (left side of the central part). After heavy rains many tufas can get wet, but good climbers don‘t mind that.

Basically all the routes in Mišja peč are slightly or heavily overhanging and you need a lot of strength, endurance or sometimes both. Still, you can be surprised by quite technical, vertical parts. It‘s good to be at home among tufas, and all the longer routes have great no hand rests, if you are skilled enough. Sadly some of the classics are very polished and some of them would easily deserve a plus more. The best routes start around 7a.

The first route, that started its life as an aid climb Lastovke, is today known as Preobrazba 7c+, and was freed by Srečo Rehberger in the late 80s.

The crag is situated outside the village, which doesn‘t absolve you from basic rules of etiquette. Watch out where you are walking, don‘t pick fruits and take your trash with you.