Napoleonica

Napoleonica is a huge crag and a home to a proud group of Trieste climbers, who can be seen scurrying along the famous traverses on the foot of the crag. This is a true family climbing spot, even if “papa“ likes to send an 8 or two – as long as he prefers polished vertical walls. The older part is situated beside the road. The routes are artificial and polished, but the newer sectors lie below the road – with excellent Calabrone and Mano di Fatima, which brought true renaissance to the Napa crag.

Drive on the highway A4 from Trieste/Fernetti in the direction of Venezia (Venice). Get off at Prosecco exit. When you pass Lanza center (on your right), turn left and immediately left again, then after a couple of meters turn right on a side road to Monte Grisa. Follow the straight road to a peculiar crossroad, where you turn right until a T intersection, where you go left. This is the beginning of a long and big parking lot, on the end of which the crag starts. You may still have to walk quite a bit up or down on the scree to get to some sectors, but it‘s usually worth it. You can sometimes make a shortcut with abseil (eg. Piccolo cottolengo), and sometimes you have to climb to a sector (Parete bianca).

In the summer the weather is too hot, except in the parts in the shade and in the morning or evening. Rain will also chase you to the nearest bar. But the exposition is extremely sunny, so you can climb here during the whole winter (on a sunny day) and of course spring and autumn. Some routes do tend to get wet.

The rock in Napoleonica is fantastic. Especially by the road the last broken hold is dated in the times of Napoleon. You can‘t complain over the equipment either – although it varies from ancient to “yesterday‘s“. The routes mostly have anchors with biners on top, but you have to retie your rope occasionaly. The comfort under the wall by the road is unparalleled, while in other sectors it‘s generally OK – if you survive the approach.