Arci in Baratro @ photo by Stefano Staffeta

In Memoriam: Arci – Andrea Varnerin

It is with heavy hearts that we share the somber news of the passing of Arci – Andrea Varnerin, who bravely battled a significant illness. Arci, a devoted husband and father to his son Stefano, was not only a beloved family man but also one of the most distinguished climbers and developers of climbing areas around Trieste.

Arci was a pioneer of sport climbing in Trieste, being among the first—perhaps the very first—to apply modern training systems to the sport. He pioneered the technique of equipping and ascending initial sport routes bolted from above, starting in Val Rosandra and later, alongside climbers like Marco, Taddeo, and others, along the Coast (Costiera, Napoleonica, and more). Around 1985, he bolted warm-up classics in Mišja peč, such as the first parts of Ptičja perspektiva (7b) and Albanski konjak (6c+). In 1989, he bolted and successfully ascended first 8b+ grade route in Trieste, Pugacioff in Napoleonica.

Beyond his contributions to sport climbing, Arci harbored a deep passion for bouldering. In the early 2000s, he embraced this new discipline with enthusiasm, dedicating a substantial amount of time to it. His bouldering achievements included scaling boulders up to FB8a in Črnotiče.

Arci’s legacy in the climbing community is profound, and his absence will be keenly felt. Rest in peace, Arci; you will be dearly missed.