Climbing area Napoleonica, Trieste italy | Climb Istria


 /  / Napoleonica

Napoleonica is a huge crag and a home to a proud group of Trieste climbers, who can be seen scurrying along the famous traverses on the foot of the crag. This is a true family climbing spot, even if “papa“ likes to send an 8 or two – as long as he prefers polished vertical walls. The older part is situated beside the road. The routes are artificial and polished, but the newer sectors lie below the road – with excellent Calabrone and Mano di Fatima, which brought true renaissance to the Napa crag.


Drive on the highway A4 from Trieste/Fernetti in the direction of Venezia (Venice). Get off at Prosecco exit. When you pass Lanza center (on your right), turn left and immediately left again, then after a couple of meters turn right on a side road to Monte Grisa. Follow the straight road to a peculiar crossroad, where you turn right until a T intersection, where you go left. This is the beginning of a long and big parking lot, on the end of which the crag starts. You may still have to walk quite a bit up or down on the scree to get to some sectors, but it‘s usually worth it. You can sometimes make a shortcut with abseil (eg. Piccolo cottolengo), and sometimes you have to climb to a sector (Parete bianca).


In the summer the weather is too hot, except in the parts in the shade and in the morning or evening. Rain will also chase you to the nearest bar. But the exposition is extremely sunny, so you can climb here during the whole winter (on a sunny day) and of course spring and autumn. Some routes do tend to get wet.

Rock Quality

The rock is fantastic. Especially by the road the last broken hold is dated in the times of Napoleon. You can‘t complain over the equipment either – although it varies from ancient to “yesterday‘s“. The routes mostly have anchors with biners on top, but you have to retie your rope occasionaly. The comfort under the wall by the road is unparalleled, while in other sectors it‘s generally OK – if you survive the approach.

Recommended accommodations

Hostel Ociski Raj

Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well many opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.

Routes (from left to right)

The routes are mostly vertical, with an exception now and then and the sectors Mano di Fatima and Grotta di Cane (where power and dynamics is required). The climbing is usually technical and precise. A lot of times accurate beta is very helpful. Watch out on the older routes – just because a local climber is running up the route, it may not apply to you, despite the “low“ grade. The rock here was cut for the passing road, and the holds prove it – often they are polished like… racing car tires.

The routes aren‘t too long (around 30 m tops), but the new ones are generously bolted, so bring a few extra quickdraws.

A – Classica
Texi 5a 12m
Franehica 5b 12m
Spigolo giallo 6a 12m
Mr.Grease 6a 12m
Carioca 6a 12m
Varianta 6a+ 12m
Isidora 6a 12m
Mago Merlino 6a+ 12m
No Arci 6a 12m
Bombastic 5c 12m
J.Arg 5c 12m
Old time 5b 12m
Stu ledi 5b 10m
Napo games 6a 10m
Rock labirinth 6c 10m
Clorophille 6b+ 10m
Cico 4c 10m
Ra artu 6a+ 12m
Mumble 5c 12m
Q6 6a 12m
Q7 5c 12m
Irish caffe 5c 10m
Black out 6b 10m
B.P.S. 6a+ 12m
Bananarama 5c 12m
La via del teran 6b 12m
Stinger 6b 12m
? 5c 12m
? 5a 12m
? 5c 12m
B – Scudo (The shield)
Mr.Crocodile 7a+ 12m
Managua 7a+ 15m
Ratataplan 7b 17m
Mud club 8a+ 18m
Telefono azzurro 7a+ 19m
Scudo 7a+ 20m
La galina zota 8b 20m
Wild wind 8a 20m
Scacco matto 8b 18m
Poker d’assi 7c+ 18m
Orcobaleno 8b 15m
Romantische Strasse 8a 10m
Scala reale 7a+ 10m
C – Lastrone giallo (Yellow flake)
Criticomania 7a 22m
Highlander II 7a 22m
Lucky Luke 7a+ 22m
La rouge 7a+ 12m
La rouge (to the right) 7b 14m
Pugacioff 8b+ 17m
Hells bells 7c 25m
Atmosfera zero 7c 25m
Blu notte 8a+ 20m
Spit al popolo 7c+ 18m
D – Avancorpo Cispan Basso
Aladin 5b 20m
Morgana 6b 17m
Heidi 5a 20m
E – Torre Trieste (Trieste tower)
Trilly 6a 10m
Peter Pan 6a+ 28m
Via de Spiro 5a 28m
Rebus 6c 30m
? 4a 20m
Pokemon 4b 20m
Brontolo 4b 20m
Contratempi 6b 30m
Pokemon 4b 20m
F – Salame e salamino
Eta Beta 6b+ 28m
Naftalina 6c+ 20m
Spiro 5a 20m
Cispan 5a 10m
G – Avancorpo Cispan Alto
Idefix 6a+ 15m
Anacleto 6b 15m
Artu 5b 18m
Panoramix 6b 18m
Falbala 6a 18m
Asterix 5b 18m
Obelix 5b 18m
Merlino 4b 18m
H – Parete bianca (White face)
Passaggio de Spiro 5c 10m
Passaggio facile 3c 10m
I – Vedetta Italia
Lupetto 5c 20m
Stancherle 6a+ 20m
Cucherle 6a 20m
Titanic 6a+ 20m
La vendetta dei nani 7a+ 20m
Sognando California 7b+ 25m
Menudaie 8b 25m
Dr.Jekill and Mr.Hyde 7a 25m
Desaparecidos 8a+ 25m
Il miglio verde 7c 25m
Oggi no 7b+ 25m
Il clown 6a 25m
J – Cristo
Spigolo del Cristo 6a 20m
Jesus Christ Masterfix 6c 20m
Tonsai 7a+ 23m
Heliopolys 7a+ 23m
La rusine del Cristo 6b+ 23m
Una storia sbagliata 6b+ 25m
Punti cardinali 6c+ 25m
Il belvedere 6a 16m
Belvedere alto P 8m
L’amore ha un solo colore 8a 16m
Find your way P 15m
Salto nel nulla 6a 15m
Zazzeron! 5c 17m
Placca de Cispan 5b 17m
L’espirit de la grimpe 5a 14m
L’espirit de la grimpe extension 8a 27m
Pierin fa cose 7c+ 30m
Bacer si prova 8a 30m
Il viaggio del Icaro 6c+ 32m
La scafe alte 4b 25m
Il gabbiano e la poiana 5c 20m
K – Piccolo cottolengo
Lost angels 6a 18m
Connexion 6a 20m
Via di fuga 6a 20m
Guru Gaspa 7b 20m
MILF 7b+ 16m
Takel 7b 20m
La mia calmazia 6c 27m
Hot line 7b 30m
Coffee on sight 7a 26m
Scorpio 7a 25m
I marielli 7a+ 23m
Il trasloco 6b+ 25m
Nico’s moves 6c+ 20m
Speedball 7a+ 23m
Blaghers in arms 6c 25m
L – Torre di Babele (Tower of Babel)
? 5a 20m
? 5b 20m
S.O.S. 6b+ 20m
Mistral 6b 20m
? 7b 20m
Torre di Babele 7a+ 20m
L’estro del musico 6b 20m
Senza catena 6c+ 20m
Cucu 6c+ 20m
? 6a 20m
M – Bubulk tower
Super Viki 6c+ 23m
Sugli specchi 6a+ 25m
Highlander 6c 20m
Highlander extension 7a+ 30m
Junc 6a+ 15m
? 6b 22m
Bubulk tower 6c 22m
Bubulk tower extension 6c+ 22m
Miramar 6a 18m
Projet 6c 17m
Projet extension 7a 30m
N – Calabroni
Animal house 6b+ 18m
Malakas 6c 18m
Ultimatum 6b+ 18m
Cherry kiss 7a 18m
El gonzo 6c 18m
Herr Dulfer 6a+ 26m
Diedro concavo 5b 30m
Mai dopo i kosi 5c 30m
Calabroni 5c 26m
Arnica montana 6b+ 30m
Reve de sardon 6c+ 12m
Barracuda 6c+ 12m
Sumar fluskur 6c 20m
Pinna bianca 6b 22m
Ascelle atomiche 6c+ 20m
Dreamland 6b+ 20m
Il grande vuoto 6c 16m
Vitovska 6b 16m
Piedi sensibili 6c 20m
Muschio selvaggio 6b 24m
Nein danke 6a 27m
Sika no more 6b+ 22m
Materia grigia 6c 22m
Luna blu 6b+ 22m
Bestia nera 6c 18m
Sgrunf 6c+ 18m
Spitfire 6a+ 16m
Calabronication 6b 16m
Mira el dito 6b+ 16m
Violetta 6b+ 16m
O – Grotta del cane (Dog’s cave)
Atti vandalici 6a+ 12m
Promozione 5a 12m
Diarrea 5a 8m
La cascata 6a+ 12m
La fontana 6c+ 12m
Scorpions 7b 15m
Oklahoma 7c+ 15m
Il parassita 7c 13m
Absolutely free 8a 15m
Skywalker 8a+ 15m
Martedi grasso 8a 13m
El muzzin 8a+ 13m
Veronica 7c+ 12m
Jojelly P 12m
Micio 7b 11m
Gaston 6c+ 7m
P – Olimpo
La scala dei Ziganti 4a 12m
? 6a+ 12m
Please don’t fly 6a+ 12m
Ramses 6b+ 12m
Nefertari 6b 12m
Paperinik 5c 12m
Andromacus 5c 12m
Apollo 6b+ 12m
Cracatoa 6a+ 12m
Afrodite 6b 12m
Timo 7a 12m
Damocle 7a+ 10m
R – Luna park
Jailbreak 5c 9m
Una favola per Nicola 4c 24m
La guantiera pirata 5a 18m
Il vassoio fantasma 6a+ 22m
Tagada 7a 24m
Yu mast 7a+ 20m
Diedro bianco 5c 22m
Burpy 6a 22m
Via dalla pazza folla 5a 20m
S – Paralelle
La fessura 5a 20m
La fonte della giovinezza 4a 20m
La via accanto 4a 18m
Orecchie d’asino 4c 17m
Brodo way 6c 19m
Il tagliaerbe 6b 18m
Algatraz 6b 18m
Il giro del pirata 4c 18m
Equinozio 5c 23m
Ezio e le storie tese 6a+ 24m
Nave scuola 4b 22m
Calimero 6b 28m
La parallele 5b+ 22m
Campanula piramidale 4c 28m
Ho bisogno di te 3a 8m
Corso 98 3 10m
T – Mano di Fatima
Ushuaia 7a+ 14m
This is not Hollywood 6c 14m
Mano di Fatima 6a 15m
Maktub 6c 15m
Surimono 6b+ 15m
La guerra dei nervi 7c+ 18m
Sbisigando con l’orango 8b+ 20m
Sacro e profano 8b 20m
Il padrone assoluto 8a 20m
Harakiri 7c 10m
Harakiri kiki 8a+ 18m
L’obliqua 7b+ 13m
L’obliqua plus 8a 18m
Banzai 7b 10m
Banzai extension 8a+ 18m
Gocce di saggezza 6a 13m
Lemuri 8b+ 18m
Confucio 6c+ 15m
Il cipresso net cortile 6c 16m
Veleno per il cuore 7a 16m
Shobogenzoo 6b+ 16m
Sol levante 5b 16m
U – Serpente (Snake)
L’ombra del falco 5b 20m
Oberon e Titania 6a 20m
La dama delle eufobie 6b 20m
Hellas 6a 20m
Via del serpente 5c 23m
L’onomastico 7a 20m
Diagonalka 6c 22m
Corto maltese 5c 20m
V – Occhiali (Glasses)
50 6a 12m
Troppo bella 5b 12m
Larrampuscolo 6a+ 25m
Larampuscolo direct 6c+ 25m
Variante Jurejev 6b+ 8m
Capitan Hakerle 6b 25m
Luna rossa 7a 20m
Gli occhiali 6a+ 20m
Gli occhiali extension 6b+ 27m
Spazio libero 6c+ 25m
Gnappy 6a 25m
Galla forcella 6c+ 16m
… e cugina Cedrona 6b+ 16m
L’edera della placca 5b 15m
Il camino dell’edera 5b 15m
Juao 6b 15m
Fuma fuma merlo 6c 15m
Z – La Cuenca
Pietra franabila 6b 15m
El cadin 6b+ 15m
La sposa furiosa 6b 15m
Il terente Collombrello 5a 15m
Body tension 6b+ 15m
Jump club 6c 15m
La sfinge 5c 12m
Guida ballerino 6a 12m
Zoccolina nera 6b 12m
La panchina 5c 20m
Climbing a muerte 6a 16m
Il calzolaio matto 6a+ 16m
The best man 6a 16m