Author: Klemen Vodlan

In between lead World Cup competions, Domen Škofic, currently best Slovenian lead climber took a short break of indoor training, to make a visit to sunny and overhanging Pandora. That day he easily onsighted Toruk Maktu 8b and on his 2nd go fired Es ist vollbracht, 8b+.

Looks like Rok Blagus is in shape of his life. This week he first climbed Osapski pajek, the 8b+ in sector above the village in Osp. Three days later he came back to Osp, this time to Mišja peč. He was succesfull again as he redpointed Marjetica, the short and powerfull 8b.

There was a beautiful autumn Saturday afternoon in the picturesque vilagge of Osp. All climbers gathered to drink they well deserved beer after a long day of crimping, fighting with tufas,

In the begining of October young Anže Varga showed up in Osp. First day he climbed in sector above the village where on his second go redpointed Matičkov svet, 8b. Next day he moved to Mišja peč. First he "flashed" classic Sonce v očeh (8a+). He belayed a friend in the route a couple of years ago, so he didn't remember almost anything. Later that

We are talking about old project bolted by Ive Brajković in Limski kanal in sector called Krugi. In more then 10 years not many climbers tried it. First tries were done by climbers from Pula - Čedo & Fićo. Years after climbers from Pazin - Gogo & Frenki put inside fixed quickdraws for higher motivation. They tried route on and off, broke some holds,

New addition to Karst edge climbing areas is the latest Slovenia's bolting lady Betka Galičič achievement Predloka. Climbing area with the same parking as Črni Kal, but following dirt road towards right for another 15 minutes. After nice you walk you will reach a beatiful 40 meters high vertical wall with routes in medium grades really well bolted for which you will need 80meters rope,

Last weekend in the Big cave of Osp showed up Anže Varga who easily onsighted the first part of Active discharge which is graded 8a. He tried to onsight as well the extension graded 8b+ and in fact got quite close on it. Link to his blog. Also Jakob Bizjak onsighted the first part of Active discharge, with which he claimed his first onsight of the

Gašper Pintar - Pinti did a one day visit to Baratro on 2nd September where he managed to redpoint Il musico 8b. Week after he visited Mišja peč and did Gorenjski šnops, 8b as well. Conditons were both times far from prime but strong Pinti couldn't refuse to clip the chain on both of them. What will happen when the best season stars? :) Link to his blog

Last year directly after legendary Johanov memorial competition in the Big wall of Osp, Izidor Zupan injured his knee while almost redpointing Working class hero, a 30 meter beast in the Osp Big cave. He returned this year for a weekend with Jernej Kruder. First day Jernej fell from last holds of Helihopter v omaki (8b) on his onsight attempt. Next day both Izi and Jernej

Rok Blagus crashed La supercanna 8b+ in Baratro. A young and powerful climber from Trieste, Luca Bacer, did it too, as well as Gianfranco Dušić from Croatia. It looks like this is THE Baratro route of the year 2014. Gianfranco is in full shape at the moment, he also repeated Baratro classics like Hercules 8b and Cliffhanger 8a+.