Autumn in Istria: A season of hard sends
Autumn in Istria is undeniably one of the finest times of the year for climbing, offering perfect conditions for pushing limits on the rock. This season has been no exception, with an abundance of impressive ascents across the region. Compiling all the achievements has been a challenge, but here’s a roundup of the highlights—apologies in advance if we’ve missed any monumental sends!
The rising rockstars
Aurelia Matros, a 12-year-old German girl from Team Bavaria, shattered records in Mišja peč by clipping the chains of the power-packed Missing link (8b+). Aurelia has set a new benchmark, overtaking the previous record held by Slovakia’s Vanda Michalkova, who climbed it at 13 years old. By the way, Aurelia is a daughter of famous German climbing coach, Patrick Matros from Kraft factory.
Italy’s Pietro Franzoni, just 14, flashed the iconic Giljotina (8a).
Gustaw Fedorowski (16, Poland) had an incredible holidays here, ticking off Marjetica (8b) on his fourth attempt, Marioneta (8b), and Missing link (8b+), the latest one in a single day.
Mariana Janosova (17, Czech Republic) crushed Mrtvaški ples (8b) in Mišja peč and tackled the rarely repeated, crimpy I am not a carpet muncher (8a) in Buzetski kanjon’s Winter sector.
Adults stepping up
Spanish climber Alex Ventajas dominated in Mišja peč, onsighting Mozaik (8a) and Sonce v očeh (8a+), did 1st try ascent of Missing drink (8b+), and sending the extremely long Millennium (8b+) on his second go.
Lovro Črep impressed with quick ascents, sending Marjetica (8b) on his second attempt, and Strelovod (8c) and Konec Mira (8c) in just four tries. Martin Bergant also joined the Konec Mira club.
Italy’s Luca Camanni ticked Lahko noč Irena (8b) and Marjetica (8b) in a single day.
Lucas Trandafir (Germany) flashed Mozaik (8a) and Chiquita (8a), while dispatching Missing link (8b+), Strelovod (8c), and Missing drink (8b+) on his second attempt.
Hungary’s Valyi Gergo onsighted the enduring Urbanova (8a), and Tim Pahor celebrated his first 8b+ by climbing Kaj ti je deklica (8b+).
Local stars continued to shine, with Matija Zupan sending the chipped Marioneta (8b) and local climber Rok Repek conquered Missing link (8b+), all in Mišja peč.
Dynamic women and notable ascents from Italian and Croatian part of Istria
Slovakia’s Lenka Piesta Micicova and Sara Šimekova tackled Karies (8b) in the picturesque Banje sector above Osp.
Power duo Ivana Staraj and Mina Markovič had a productive season: Ivana redpointed the pumpy Corto (8a), while Mina crushed Tekila (8a) in Mišja peč and added Neytiri (8a) in Pandora to her list.
Lana Skušek redpointed her training route, the first part of Chiquita (8a) in Mišja peč.
Lucija Tarkuš completed her last years’s project Človek ne jezi se (8c). Meanwhile, Mojca Bizjak matched her personal best by conquering Albanski konjak (8a), all in Mišja peč, of course.
In Kompanj, Matjaž Zorko repeated the bouldery Domaći tofu (8b), likely for the first time.
Jaka Šprah made his mark in Val Rosandra, repeating Tetris (8b) in the steep, short Caprette sector.
With promising forecasts ahead, crispy temperatures, and sunlit crags, the conditions in Istria couldn’t be better for sending hard! Get out there, enjoy, and climb on!