Martin Krpan (9a) by 13 years old Andrea Chelleris
13 years old Andrea Chelleris has done his first 9a, Martin Krpan in Mišja peč. Interesting, at the same age, also Adam Ondra succeeded in his first 9a by clipping the chains of Martin Krpan (9a). Martin Krpan (9a) was first ascended by Slovenian Jure Golob back in 2001. The futuristic line was bolted in the nineties of course by Tadej Slabe. It is about 60
Alex Megos does Martin Krpan (9a) on 2nd go
After not getting in to the finals, lots of World cup competitors showed up in Mišja peč on Saturday. The highlight of the day was Alex Megos's second go ascent of Martin Krpan (9a). The redpoint looked quite easy, like Alex had still some juice left in the tank. He found it soft, but admitted that it suited his style perfectly. After he did also
Baratro is re-opened!
Baratro is re-opened! Thanks to association "Proghetto Verticale Trieste"! Please follow the rules written here! Climbing area Baratro Association "Proghetto Verticale Trieste" welcomes all the climbers. Association was founded to save the access and frequency of the climbing areas around Trieste and the first result is in saving this magnificent climbing area named Baratro. It is wanted to mantain direct communication with all the climbers. Anyways, you are asked
Fabrizio Masoch climbs his first 8c
35 years old Fabrizio Masoch climbs his first 8c by adding Helikopter v pošasti (8c) in the big cave of Osp to his ticklist. Helikopter v pošasti (8c) is a 55 meters long tufa wrestle that starts in Helikopter v omaki (8b) and after the chain turns to the left to finish in Osapska pošast (8c). It is characterized as an endurance route on tufas.
Rebolting routes – interview with Projekt OSP
We have a new problematic issue to publish on our site: rebolting of existing routes in Istria. We got in contact with Slovenian Projekt OSP and have had an interesting interview with them. Three main Projekt OSP members Štefan Wraber, Jurij Ravnik and Rajko Zajc have given their answers to our questions. From our point of view, first we have to thank and congratulate Projekt OSP
World Cup lead climbing Koper 02.-03. September
On 2nd and 3rd of September first World Cup in lead climbing will be held in Koper, Slovenia, Istria. On a brand new wall in Koper lead competitors from all over the world will compete in Friday's qualifications at 9AM and semifinals at 8PM in the evening and Saturday's final's at 8PM in the evening. After the finals there will be a party and a
Chipped holds
PLEASE SHARE THIS WITH ANYONE WHO LOVES OUR NATURAL CLIMBING WALLS To boil this letter down to bullet points for people skimming: - Our natural climbing walls in Italy, Slovenia and Croatia are getting chipped, drilled, and glued to death - It’s not a few routes, or a few holds, it is substantial manufacturing - Reports from locals are of entire crags put up with heavy fabrication - We want
Hot sends from Baratro and Osp cave
Latest climbing news come from Baratro and the big cave of Osp. We have already reported about Luca Bacer's first ascent of L'ammazzasogni (8c) in Baratro a week ago. Besides that Jernej Kruder flashed short, powerful and as usual for Baratro totally artificial Corrida (8a+). Jaka Šprah redpointed probably the easiest 8b over there, Masochismo and the amazing power endurance fest La peste nera (8b+).
Water world (9a) in the big cave of Osp climbed by Matjaž Zorko
Matjaž Zorko climbed Water world (9a) in the big cave of Osp. This is his second 9a after already succeeding in Halupca 1979 (9a) in the same crag in January this year. He needed about twenty tries to clip the anchor of this 55 meters long very overhanging route. The route counts now at least 10 repeats and is tagged as one of the best
Broken holds in Mišja peč & in the cave of Osp
Probably because of really dry winter and mining for Second track Divača - Koper railway line with 7 tunnels and 3 viaducts many holds got broken in routes in Mišja peč and in the cave of Osp. There is a hold or tufa missing or it just got a bit smaller. All the routes were reclimbed, all are now harder but still probably in the same