Author: Klemen Vodlan

Grotta Caterina @ photo by Gabriele Sbisighin Lately our local climbers were extremely active, so they have bolted, cleaned and first ascended many of new routes all around Istria. In Val Rosandra (Glinščica), in small but very steep sector Caprette, Trieste local climber did a great job. Gabriele Gorobey aka Sbisi first cleaned all the wall after some stupid climber made artificial holds and footholds everywhere in

Photo @ Timotej Romšak onsighting Baram Baram (8a) in the big cave of Osp Really many hard ascents were done in Istria in the last week. Let's check out the most important ones. In the big cave of Osp, only 15 years old Timotej Romšak onsighted short and steep Baram Baram (8a). Baram Baram starts with "easy" climbing in a roof to a sketchy boulder and a

Jakob Bizjak in Water world (9a) in the big cave of Osp @ photo by Klemen Bečan The centre of hard redpoints last week was for sure the big cave of Osp. First Jernej Kruder climbed another 9a by clipping the anchor of Matej Sova’s Halupca 1979 (9a). Then Jakob Bizjak crushed his first 9a ever with climbing Klemen Bečan’s work of Water world (9a). Now

The peregrine falcon hanging out on a tree on top of the Caffe expresso (8a+) in Mišja peč @ photo by Jure Franko Climbers be aware before coming to Mišja peč. The peregrine falcon is nesting on a ledge above Teta Liza (7a), Oro puro (7c), 9a (6c, 7c) and Uncle Ben (7b). Those routes are now strictly forbidden to climb. Anyways, those routes are

Only 19 years old World Cup competitor Vita Lukan showed up in Mišja peč. In just three days she smashed the crimpy traverse in the right part of Mišja peč named Strelovod (8c) in just three tries. Before her hardest redpoint was »just« 8b. She needed three tries as well for the classic endurance pitch of Kaj ti je deklica (8b+). She climbed also power

photo @ Skedenj Now that sport climbing outdoors in Slovenia is again allowed and traveling around the country permitted without exceptions, climbers are beginning to return to the crags. A few days ago our friends were climbing in Skedenj, the secret crag near Sežana which is perfect in warmer part of the year as it doesn’t get any sun at all. Over there they got again in contact with

Photo @ the view from Lijak Dear climbers, it seems that the ray of light towards the freedom of allowed climbing outdoors has shined. As far as we understand the Slovenian government proceedings, Thursday the 16th of April’s news state that outdoor sports where personal contacts can be avoided and safety precautions followed, are again allowed. But still leaving the municipality where you have your residence

Gregor Šeliga in FA of Paula nad prepadom (8a+) in Črnotiče @ photo by Štefan Wraber Before coronavirus hit us badly and climbing outdoors was still allowed, Gregor Šeliga first ascended a new route in Črnotiče cave. The new route now has the name »Paula nad prepadom« and a proposed grade of 8a+. It starts with the same boulder as Gnojna bula (8a+) and then goes

Photo @ Medveja Austrian Andreas Matuska made a first repeat of More (9a) in Medveja. The hardest route in Croatian part of Istria was first ascended by Adam Ondra himself back in 2016. It is the extension of Villa Oraj (7b+) and is characterized with far moves on small holds. For Andi this is his second 9a after succeeding in Sever the wicked hand in Frankenjura

photo @ Mitja Jereb climbing Kaj ti je deklica (8b+) in Mišja peč The weather is treating us really well this winter. The sun is out, all the routes are totally dry and the psyche is high. Many climbers are proving their shapes all around Istria, but the hardest routes are as usual done in the epicentre of hard-core climbing, Mišja peč. Austrian Jakob Greistorfer succeeded in two