Author: Klemen Vodlan

Photo @ Medveja Austrian Andreas Matuska made a first repeat of More (9a) in Medveja. The hardest route in Croatian part of Istria was first ascended by Adam Ondra himself back in 2016. It is the extension of Villa Oraj (7b+) and is characterized with far moves on small holds. For Andi this is his second 9a after succeeding in Sever the wicked hand in Frankenjura

photo @ Mitja Jereb climbing Kaj ti je deklica (8b+) in Mišja peč The weather is treating us really well this winter. The sun is out, all the routes are totally dry and the psyche is high. Many climbers are proving their shapes all around Istria, but the hardest routes are as usual done in the epicentre of hard-core climbing, Mišja peč. Austrian Jakob Greistorfer succeeded in two

Photo @ Mišja peč on Saturday A bit late news, but still better than nothing, I guess. We have already reported a week ago about Adam Ondra onsighting Starec in morje (8b+) in Limski kanal and about his short visit to Kompanj for his first time ever. He liked Kompanj so much, he returned soon after and smashed Klemen Bečan's masterpiece All in, I'm out (8c) which

Photo @ Gregor Šeliga in the first ascent of Kremplja (8b) in Črnotiče Gregor Šeliga - Šeli first ascended a new route, that he bolted a couple of weeks ago, in Črnotiče cave. It begins a bit right from Gibanica (7c+) and follows obvious line in the roof towards left where in the middle it crosses Gnojna bula (8a+). Then it turns diagonal up towards the

Did you hear? Adam Ondra, the world’s best and strongest climber ever, is back in Istria after a couple of years. He visited Limski kanal where he onsighted Franci Jensterle's hardest route over there, Starec in morje (8c), for which he thinks that it should be downgraded to 8b+. Then he visited for the first time the beautiful crag above the village of Roč, named

photo@Luca Bacer in Intensive (FB8a) in Črnotiče Trieste based local climber Luca Bacer crushes Intensive (FB8a) in Črnotiče. He crushed the sit start to Less intensive (FB7c) on a night session between his studies for university exams. Link to the video of his ascent! In the same garage sized cave in Črnotiče, Gregor Šeliga bolted a new project that starts in Gibanica (7c+) and then goes

photo @ Martin Tekles in Sanjski par extension (9a) in Mišja peč Happy new year 2020 to all of you climbers! We wish you a healthy and injury free year, full of prime conditions for climbing, with lots of sun. May it bring a bunch of hard onsights, flashes and redpoints. In Istria Christmas and New Year passed with great conditions for climbing. Sun, clear skies and

Benjamin Marjanovič in Mister Fantasy (8a) in Costiera @ photo by local Aldo Michelini There was quite a bad weather everywhere in the last days or even weeks, so not many hard routes were climbed. But still, in Istria you can always find some dry rocks. Thankfully in the next days it will be only sunny, so the climbing is going to be great. In Costiera,

photo @ the magnificent view from Črni kal Finally, the sun got out and pleasant conditions for climbing arrived, so yeah, on Saturday there were crowds in all the climbing areas around Istria and many hard routes were climbed. Sunday was a bit cloudy, yesterday it rained, but now the sun is back and it should stay for at least couple of days. Nikola Kramarić from Split, Croatia, made a fast

photo @ Mišja peč Slovenian boulderer, also World Cup competitor, Zan Lovenjak Sudar sent legendary Talk is cheap (8c) in Mišja peč. His second 8c ever! Congrats! Another 8c was done by only 14 years old Ukranian Ilya Bakhmet Smolensky, which climbed Osapski pajek (8c) in sector above the village of Osp on his 4th go after already redpointing Matičkov svet (8b). By the way, in Mišja