Another week report from Istria

on photo Urša Florjančič climbing Happy mix (8a) in Skedenj Rocktober started perfectly, temps dropped down, conditions arrived and climbers showed up all around, that is why also many hard climbs got crushed. Hmmm…where to start? Restless Franci Jensterle aka Frenk first broke a crucial hold in the second part of Working class hero (8b+) in the big cave of Osp, but later still redpointed the route

Uroš Brecelj in Vizija (8c) @ photo by Luka Tambača This Sunday strongman Uroš Brecelj clipped the chains of his first 8c, the crimpy Vizija in the central part of Mišja peč. 30-meters long Vizija was bolted and first ascended by Luka Zazvonil back in 2004, later a hold broke in the first hard part and made it even more solid for the grade. It is

Gogo in Grinta @ Photo by Enna Peroš Goran Matika aka Gogo from Pazin made a first ascent of a new route now with the name Grinta and a proposed grade of 8c in the sector Slap in Buzetski kanjon. Grinta was bolted years ago by Čedomir Čekič Čedo and is the first route to the right of Infamous bastards (8b+). Gogo spent three seasons trying

Sendtember in Istria finally arrived! The conditions in summer climbing areas like Baratro and Skedenj got prime, also lower temps made it possible to climb again in the famous Osp and Mišja peč, plus in all the other climbing areas. Logically, with good conditons, many hard redpoints and personal records appear. Luca Bacer from Trieste gave himself best possible birthday present by redpointing his hardest route up

Almost all the latest hard-core climbing news from Istria in the last days come from the beautiful secret crag close to Sežana called Skedenj. Of course, after the whole partly dry summer the perfect conditions arrived in this spectacular cave, so also these achievements in compare to the shape of our climbers over there are no surprise at all. So what were the highlights of the

Katja Kadić, member of Slovenian Bouldering Team, redpointed Attila (8c/c+) in Italian secret spot Baratro in just five tries. Attila is about 15 meters long, really steep on mostly artificial crimps and is a pure power endurance testpiece. This is far hardest redpoint for 21 years old Katja. To make a day perfect, she finished it with clipping the chains of other two 8a+'s: Dubbio

Last week Klemen Kejžar flashed his first 8b+ ever, Supercanna or also named Il ritorno di Placcoman in Baratro. The route in the middle of the cave is around 20 to 25 meters long characterized by pure power endurance and is surprisingly one of the most natural routes of Baratro. Bravo Klemen! Besides he also climbed in his first try the »last addition« of Baratro, the

The perfect summer venues , that are secret because of the private property and small parking places, saw some hard ticks last week when the conditions were perfect for climbing. In Skedenj near Sežana, Matej Sova made the second repeat of recently broken Vision, now with the grade of 8b+ characterized by a hard morphological boulder at the start passing the horizontal roof. Kadja Kadič climbed Happy

The hardest route climbed last week in Istria was for sure Attila (8c/c+), a very artificial 15 meters long, really steep power endurance testpiece of Baratro. It was climbed by Slovenians Klemen Kejžar and Žiga Debevec. For Žiga this was his first 8c or more. Great work guys! Another record was achieved in the big cave of Osp, where Peter Juvan succeeded in his first 8b

Biggest news from the last days comes from the legend of Slovenian sports climbing, 49 years old restless Franci Jensterle who just fired his long term project, Bimba Yena (8c/c+) in Baratro. Bimba Yena was first ascended by Matej Sova back in 2007. It is around 20 meters long route, characterized by athletes’ requirement of extreme power endurance on crimps, sloppers and sideholds. Bravo Frenk! Also